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Re: '92 9000 decaf auto,engine itself smooth, but car has vibration Posted by Ari [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: '92 9000 decaf auto,engine itself smooth, but car has vibration, Richard Dickinson, Wed, 7 Mar 2001 07:22:36 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I second Toni about the motor mounts.
Do this simple test - open the hood, and with the engine running, the parking brake set, and your foot firmly on the brake pedal, shift from Park to Reverse to Drive and back. Peek through the gap between the dashboard and the bottom of the hood - you should be able to see the top of the engine. If the engine 'lurches' as you shift from Park to reverse, and again from reverse to drive, and the movement is more than about 1/2- 3/4 inch, the chances are good the motor mounts are shot.
There are two lower mounts on the belt side of the engine, and one lower mount under the transmission. At the top of the engine is a 'dogbone' - not technically a motor mount, but a torsion bar to limit engine movement. The mount under the transmission usually lasts a long time, but the right side lower mounts are wear items. If they go, they can cause excessive vibration and harsh shifting.
Replacement by a dealer usually runs around $400 - $500. An independent shop should be able to charge less - it's not a hard job. The right inner fender liner is removed (about 20 minutes), the engine lifted and supported, and the mounts removed and replaced. I've done it at home on my cars in about 2-3 hours.
The car comes stock with hydraulic mounts. Also available are solid mounts - they cost less, and reduce engine movement. They also transmit a lot more vibration. I don't recommend the solid mounts unless (1) you're really strapped for cash, or (2) you plan on doing a lot of speed shifting, and want to keep engine movement to a minimum. But if you're bothered by the vibration now, solid mounts aren't the way to go.
Good luck!
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