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Re: How do you remove the subframe to remove transmission?
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Posted by Yaofeng [Email] (more from Yaofeng) on Thu, 7 Jun 2001 13:16:34 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: How do you remove the subframe to remove transmission?, Murph, Thu, 7 Jun 2001 03:12:09
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I am quite sure it is easier to remove the power train now you have access to a lift. Just imagine the wide open space to install the clutch and transmission. It is not going to be more time consuming than removing the transmission by itself. No subframe to remove.

Plus, unlike the Honda you've handled, it is extremely difficult to allign the transmission with the engine in-car on a SAAB 9k. If you still like to do it that way, I'd recommend you to remove the intermediate shaft (and the rear engine mount) first and fit it up after the transmission is bolted up. Why? In-car, you will be aligning both the output shaft and the drive shaft at the same time. Believe me, even with the powertrain out, it is still difficult (I don't have a transmission jack, being a weekend mechanic.) I would not want to do it in-car alligning both shafts at the same time.

Now if you pull the powertrain, it is not that bad. You must have both drive shafts separated. From memory again, you have to remove the following items.

Battery, ABS computer, false bulkhead (that plastic piece behind the engine), and tuck several small fuse boxes in the engine bay out of the way. Also remove the ECU and tuck the wiring to the ECU on top of the engine. The ECU is on the driver side behind the battery inside the firewall but outside of the car.

From the front of the engine:

Remove the AC compressor, but do not disturb the pressure boundary. Fasten the compressor to the frame of the car but out of the way of the engine. Remove the water pump and the coolant hoses to the radiator. Drain coolant first, of course. Remove the O2 sensor. Loosen the exhaust pipe from the header. Support the exhaust pipe. Don't let it drop too low or you may have to replace the exhaust system afterward. Remove the coolant hose from the engine to the radiator.

From the rear of the engine:

Assuming you have already disconnected the shift linkage and the false bulkhead. Remove the throttle linkage. Disconnect the main wiring harness from the firewall. Disconnect the heater hoses (two next to each other top and down), also from the firewall.

The powertrain has four mechanical fasteners to the frame. Three bottom mounts (one of them is actually for the transmission) and one top mount agains engine jerking. Loosen and remove the bolts. Also remove the power steering pump from the bottom. It is bolted to the engine beneath the alternator. Disconnect the fuel line from near the starter.

Now you are in business to remove the powertrain. It weighs about 450 lbs, I think. Extend you lift appropriately. You'll be lifting the engine, transmission, starter, alternator, intake manifold in one unit. The beauty of a lift is with the hydraulic jack you have pinpoint control.

The manual recommend extending the hood shock so the hood opens wider. But I found it unnecessary. Take all the time you want in lifting and installing the powertrain. The only thing I found to be a little difficult is that during fit up, special care needs to be taken to allign the three bottom engine mounts. An engine rotating device will help (I don't have one) a great deal because the engine is slanted like 23 degress forward in its natural position. Also put your gear in either first, third or fifth during fit-up, so the shift linkage is less protruded in the engine bay to be hung-up by the shift input rod. Watch out for the ABS unit when you install the powertrain. You could scrape it if you're not careful.

If you decide to do it and need further information, let me know. I firmly believe it take less time than doing the tranny alone. (for me anyway with the tools I have available in my garage.)
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