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Re: Bleeding brakes
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Posted by Mike (more from Mike) on Mon, 11 Jun 2001 18:22:59 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: Bleeding brakes, Ari [Profile/Gallery] , Mon, 11 Jun 2001 12:04:26
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Ari,

Thank you for your timely response. Below I have posted my responses with your questions:

Since the pump runs when you jumper the relay, the pump is OK. When you say jumper the relay, do you mean jumper across the contacts, or provide 12 volts to the coil?

JMH- from the schematic of the system it is clear that the pressure switch provides a the ground for the pump. We jumper the relay to ground and the pump runs as it should. I replaced the pressure switch with a new one, but it still does not complete the ground for the pump.

If you jumper across the contacts and the pump runs, the problem could be the relay OR the system driving the relay on. If you apply power to the coil and the pump runs, then the relay is OK, and the problem lies in what's driving it.

JMH- The relay energizes as it should.

First off, determine if the ABS pump relay is being energized. If not, find out why not. That relay gets its signal from a pressure switch on the accumulator - if the accumulator pressure is too low, the pump runs to pressurize the system. Work backwards through the system, from the relay back to what's driving it. You'll need a schematic for this. Once you get the ABS pump to run, Then and only then can you bleed the system. Get yourself the 9000 Haynes manual, or check back through past posts.

But once you get find out why the ABS pump relay isn't driving the pump, you'll probably be in very good shape.

Of course, one question would be why you replaced the ABS module. What was wrong before you replaced it? Is it hooked up correctly, and that's why you're not getting signal to the relay?

JMH- It was virtually impossible to get the pressure switch out without taking the entire ABS module out. After we got it out and inspected it, we replaced the pressure switch and re-installed it. I've double-checked all the electrical connectors, and can find none that appear to be loose.

To your knowledge, is there a static test procedure for testing the pressure switch? Do you have any idea how much pressure there should be in a fully charged system?

I have bled the front brakes, using the standard, pump and hold method, and I bled the rear brakes using the pump.

Mike Haskell
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