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Org=orange, sorry old tech short speak. Yeah you got it 2.
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Posted by Lu (more from Lu) on Tue, 4 Sep 2001 00:14:34 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: What and where is this "org. headlight module"?, 94 9000 CSE T, Mon, 3 Sep 2001 12:12:14
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Test for 12V at F3 &4 (L & R Hibeam) my 3 was dead.
Can you solder? or know a tech type who can? Carefully open orange module (which is labeled 'C LAMP CONTROL'on the electrical distribution box in front of the battery) and examine the connections (its more often than not the connections) from the circuit board of the unit to the bottom of module. My left high was dead on both cars. On one the cold solder joints (they look frosty and/or fractured and not silver shiny)were on the 56a (feed into high beam monitoring), 56aL, and 56aR (outputs respectively to lamp fuses and then out to lamps. Also the high beam indicator comes off of F3 load side to dash cluster was out too. The other car's module had several frosty and a couple of fractured joints. These are thermally and vibration sensitive. Thats why some have had temporary success with a 'WHACK' repair. It is best to remove solder with Solder Wick (a braid which attracts the liquid solder into itself) or suction device and resolder with at least a 60/40 (63/37 is best as it has absolutely no plastic state when cooling) tin/lead electronic solder. Don't go for that lead free crap the plumbers have to use as it melts sooner and has a plastic state while cooling which allows cold joints.

I think I'll have to give up my super blue brights and go back to changing out my regular halogens every 150 hours or so as this module is only rated for less than 80 Watts. The load of these extreme lamps may be causing a little stress along with just plain crudy soldering by the contracting factory. They didn't get the to proper temp when the original solder was applied.

If you can get a module from a junker for a few bucks (or quid) it would be handy. Goodluck.

posted by 24.4.2...


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