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Motor mount change notes
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Posted by Pigeon (more from Pigeon) on Sun, 21 Oct 2001 21:44:05 Share Post by Email
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I just did the motor mounts on my '94 CSE non-turbo last night and thought I'd pass along these notes:

-16mm is indeed equal to 5/8", and most Craftsman metric socket sets don't include a 16mm

-the bolts on the rear mount were a real bear: the bolt threads were caked with 8 years and 172k miles worth of crap, and copious amount of penetrating oil didn't loosen anything. Took prolly 1/2 hour each to get them off. The bolt heads were all 13mm (some writeups have a different size for one of them). The mount itself wasn't obviously torn in any way, but I could hear the fluid sloshing around in it.

-front mount wasn't too bad. I had to jack the motor up pretty far to wiggle it out, but patience made it not too bad to get out. I wound up unbolting the front subframe but didn't really need to. Access to the front bolt was pretty easy once I figured out that I had lots of room in front of the motor where the turbo would go if I had a turbo.

-the front mount which was in the car was a different design than the new one I put in. I can't tell if it's solid rubber or what. The top of the old mount doesn't have a separate "neck" which would compress into the main part of the mount when the weight of the motor is applied and there was no pad on the limit arm. It seemed to be in good shape but I had it out so I replaced it anyway.

-what I though was a mess caused by a ruptured front mount was actually a leaky front crank seal. I will probably let this go for a while although I know better. Just for reference when I do get around to it, what size is that bolt head on the crank pulley/damper?

The results are very good - much smoother. I now know that I need to change the bushing on the torque arm; well, actually the bushing on the motor to which the torque arm dogbone mounts. Talk about totally shot!

Thanks especially to Bill J for the writeup - couldn't have done it without you.

Scott

posted by 172.142.22...


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