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Re: Car wash Posted by bryan [Email]  (#542)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from bryan) on Thu, 20 Dec 2001 03:00:39
In Reply to: Car wash, MarkusJ, Wed, 19 Dec 2001 15:50:20 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I'm not sure if that bright metal work is stainless steel (as on my 889KS), electroplated plastic, or actual chrome.
Either or can be refinished without too much ado. First wipe down with specific degreaser suitable for paint preparation, my favorite is made by PPG, part # DX-33, named Acryl-Kleen, available from any professional auto paint supply store that jobs PPG. A glance in the phone book will turn up who you need to see, PPG is one of the major pro brands. DuPont makes a similar product that I'm sure works equally well, can't remember the name but I've used it as well with fine results. If you're not in the States then ask whatever chemical degreaser the paint store is selling. Wiping down with degreaser first keeps from sanding in wax, road grime, moose poo, etc. to the surface you want to paint.
As far as sanding, you can try feathering the paint edge, but on plastic/chrome trim, I would try using some kind of scraper to get all the paint off. It will save you a lot of sanding and painting over a surface that may have questionable bonding.
Once all the paint is off the intended area, use a 3M brand Scotch Brite pad liberally doused with your degreaser, and do your best to scuff THAT area and not anything else. Depending on the trim, you may want to remove it from the car or at least mask off surrounding areas at this point. The pro degreaser's are well worth the money vs. say lacquer thinner, they are a lot less toxic, won't harm plastic or painted surfaces, doesn't eat your tape, and evaporates without leaving any residue, perfect for painting.
All righty. You've got a freshly scuffed, chemically clean surface. Time to mask it and blast it! IMO opinion, if you buy anything other than 3M brand masking tape, you're asking for a lot of picking at little bits of tape and glue that didn't quite come off all the way when you go to yank off your masking job. It will be twice the price of any other brand the paint store might have, but life is short...don't spend it picking at your car with a fingernail.
The same place you bought the degreaser at or just about most parts stores will have what's known as Trim Black paint in a rattle can. This is a medium gloss black that looks nice for painting wiper arms, headlight wipers, blacking out trim, etc. etc. You can get good results with a spray can provided your preparation is correct.
One of the best tips I ever received about painting with spray cans is that the first coat should be little more than a spackle coat. Just a very light coat with no coverage. Let that dry for a bit and it really gives additional coats something to 'hang' onto and prevents runs.
after a half dozen or so light coats, you should be about covered. some people recommend using a primer before the color coat on trip, but IME all it does is make the inevitable chips that much more noticeable. The longer you can keep your car (or at least the painted areas) warm and dry the better, especially the first few days.
How long it all lasts really is dependent on thorough preparation. You can do the Earl Scheib technique and paint over all the pine needles and moose poo, but you'll be doing it again in a year. Hope that helps!
posted by 64.156.20...
, Thu, 20 Dec 2001 03:00:39 <-- Viewing This Message
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