1969-1984 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
 | [Main Saab Model 99 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Re: 78 turbo Valves and guilds Posted by Gary Stottler [Email]  (#1463) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Gary Stottler) on Wed, 24 Jul 2013 07:13:47
In Reply to: 78 turbo Valves and guilds, Justin, Mon, 22 Jul 2013 13:01:55 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Justin,
I recommend that you use cast iron guides (not bronze as some machine shops might recommend). I do not know of a current source, but I also have not checked. I would start by trying Saab Parts USA as they should be the same up through 1987 "H" engines. If they are NLA through normal channels I would think that a good machine shop could make them.
Intake valves should not need to be replaced as long as the stems don't have undue wear/scoring - they don't have heat load issues like the exhaust. However, they should also be the same up through '84 Turbo and '87 NA "H" engines (I am not aware of any difference in Turbo/NA intake valves), so they may be available.
That leaves us with exhaust valves, which do need to be replaced, especially if you have the original "early style" exhaust valves ("later" valves used on '81-'84 have a thicker "throat" area to avoid stretching and a thicker rim to avoid hot spots/burning. Both of these were weak points on the original '78-'80 valves). I think you can inspect and re-use the later valves, so worst case you can pick up an "H" head and take the valves from that. I would check Saab Parts, but I am doubtful that they are still available. I don't know about other sources, but worth checking around. Let me know if you need me to try to dig up the part number.
A couple of words on valve jobs - first, there is a later service procedure for cutting valve seats - it's important to use the later procedure which gives a 2-angle cut vs. the earlier 3-angle cut to provide the widest possible seating area for best valve cooling. I would make sure that any valves (especially used ones) are "lapped" for a tight seal/good contact/good heat transfer. Second, there is an MSS modification that drills some holes in the cam carrier to provide additional lubrication to the valve stems (they were a little dry in the B/H engines) with the trade-off of possibly increase oil consumption. I have this installed in a new head, but so far I have not run the engine so I can't report on oil consumption. The good news is that if you don't like it, you can easily swap out the carrier for an unmodified one with the engine in the car.
Send me a note off-line and I can scan all the documents related to the above items and send them to you. I still need to check on my supply of flywheel bolts - did you check with Mile Hi or West of Sweden on those? (might check with those guys on valves also). Another good source is Mike Connally at ConnTech Automotive in Warwick, RI.
Good Luck!
Gary
posted by 198.208.15...
_______________________________________ Gary Stottler
, Sun, 28 Jul 2013 05:44:35, Sat, 27 Jul 2013 07:46:13, Sat, 27 Jul 2013 07:47:57, Sat, 27 Jul 2013 07:47:00, Wed, 24 Jul 2013 07:13:47 <-- Viewing This Message
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
