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Re: Expert brake advice on '67 96
Posted by kansas (more from kansas) on Fri, 29 Aug 2003 09:40:31
In Reply to: Expert brake advice on '67 96, Gary Piland, Thu, 28 Aug 2003 23:44:30
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Hi Gary, these are easy to do. Remove caliper, don't lose copper washers if that is the brake tube connection style, clean externally, remove cylinder assembly, remove piston by applying compressed air to caliper port. Be very careful here, unless stuck it will come out with great force, so aim it at something soft like a pile of rags. Or leave the cylinder in the frame with a block of wood between piston and frame so the wood will stop the piston. Clean internals--I like alcohol (isopropyl, NAPA p/n 7100) in a spray bottle. A scotch-brite pad is fine to wipe off goo. No need to bother with the cylinder bore beyond getting it clean; the seal is formed by the square-cut rubber ring on the piston. The piston therefore should be very clean and smooth, if necessary a light dressing with 400 emery is OK; major rust/pitting means look for another piston. They used to be available new but I don't know any more. Pull the bleeder screw, put a little anti-sieze on its threads, be sure it is not plugged, be sure to cap it when through bleeding and it will stay not-plugged. Get a bottle of brake assembly lube and smear everything good before reassembly. On many calipers the tricky part is getting the dust boot in place but I don't remember just how the Saab one fits so have to leave that to you.
Be sure to install the cylinder assemblies on the correct sides with the bleeder screws up. They can be installed backwards.
If you exchange your brake fluid every two years, you will probably never need to mess with the calipers again. Holler back if there's anything I haven't covered.
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