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I'm not sure I'm understanding your meaning of "open" and "closed" re the choke.
You mean it won't idle when the choke plate is OPEN (not obscuring the carb throat) even when fully warmed up? And that it runs better with the choke plate CLOSED (mostly covering the carb throat) even at speed?
The loss of idle could be caused by a clogged idle circuit in the carb; the passages involved are pretty tiny, so it doesn't take much to block it. You might want to start by blowing air through the idle jet to see if that will clear out the passages. I use a rubber "ear syringe" from the drugstore to do this -- just press the rubber tip firmly against the idle jet and squeeze it a few times.
If that doesn't help, an air leak would still be my next play. You can't always spot these by looking! One old trick is to get a can of carb-cleaning spray, the kind with one of those long red tubular nozzles on it, and use it to check possible leak points such as around the base of the carb, all vacuum hoses (don't forget the one to the brake booster) etc. You get the engine idling, then go along with the carb spray and squirt a bit onto the suspect point. If there's a leak, the carb spray will be sucked into the engine; it burns really well, so you'll hear the engine's idle note change.
If you don't find any leaks there, don't rule out vacuum-controlled devices such as the advance diaphragm in the distributor, and the power brake booster. I can't think of any simple way to check these except to disconnect the hose, plug it, and see if the idle problem goes away.
You're in for hours of fun with this one! Good luck...
posted by 204.76.11...
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