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Re: Thermostat, 73 V4
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Posted by kansas (more from kansas) on Tue, 26 Dec 2006 10:49:01 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Thermostat, 73 V4, Cheap Charley, Tue, 26 Dec 2006 09:15:10
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Charlie, lots of possibilities. As to whether the system is full or not, this is best determined with a pressure test. Get yourself a pressure tester or find a shop that will test your system for a few bucks. With my (Stant, a popular one) tester on this system, 5-10 strokes should bring pressure to 15-20PSI if the system is full. If it has airpockets, even though the radiator may look full, more pumping will be required because the air compresses which the liquid does not.

As to overheating, is your used radiator plugged? Did you have it rodded or at least checked for flow? Possibly your water pump has an eroded impeller, or cavitation has eroded the rear waterpump cover (which stays with the car, does not get replaced with the pump) increasing impeller-to-cover distance which reduces pumping efficiency, this can be repaired after a fashion with the right epoxy product, consult Devcon industrial division.

As to the thermostat, I have not had a problem with NAPA (by Stant) thermostats, but if the original is physically different it would always be preferable. OE thermostats may still be available from Saab if you find a dealer with the old listings. Even if it comes up as obsolete, a cooperative dealer should be able to check nationwide for leftover units.

Saab cooling systems, being designed in Sweden, may come up short in hot climates. What weather conditions prevail when it overheats? A bigger radiator (early 99 or custom) or an oil cooler may help.

How is your fan? Are the plates to each side of the radiator (about 4" x 8") in place? I've been told they are important. I've also been told that the round indents about 6" diameter at the rear of the inner fenders were punched out with removeable plates for hot weather markets.

Overall I think you most likely have a heat-transfer problem in the radiator department, either because of a plugged radiator or insufficient airflow. Removing the thermostat guts may alter coolant flow to give a false lower reading, without actually changing engine temperature much. Coolant flow past an open thermostat should suffice except in extreme conditions (105-110F is common in summer for me, that's extreme) in which you need to add cooling capacity.



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