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Yes, the oil pan is a major job. Perhaps not at hard as Haynes describes.
$25 for BG sounds a bit much. It is one of the types that you cannot put a load on the engine once it is in? If so, then you need to be on ramps already if thats how you do your drains. There are some solvent types that you can drive on, Winns (sd?) etc, CTC has some of those.
What did you find under the VC. Stains, goo, butter, coffee grounds?
What oil is in there and how old is it? A sysnthetic will help clean things out. Does the oil smell burnt or rotten? What color? Any clarity or clouded up?
There are some 1 quart engine flushes out there too, no-load type.
Do drain the oil, when hot or warm, and then see what you find in the sump. Then fill with some cheap oil for the flush operation and follow the instructions on the container. If they suggest adding when cold, I would do that but shutdown when warm, not hot, and let it sit for a day, then start and run till hot, let it cool till warm then drain. That way the solvents have more time to work and get to work with some heat without been boiled off right a way. Then fill with Shell Rottella synthetic 5W40. WalMart has that in the US for $12.88 a gallon. its the best price group III oil you will find. And add a can of cleaner solvent that you can drive on and see if your oil light behaves better. You can drain that after a while and use the AutoRX and leave that in for 500 miles or whatever the package suggests. You need to change filters as there will be chunks.
Please describe what you found under the VC?
Your piston rings are probably stuck. The above treatments should free them up. But as deposits are removed, oil consumption will increase until the rings free up and reseat. Keep an eye on the oil level. When you add a solvnet drive-on type cleaner, the level will go up, but much of that will boil off and the level will drop. The vapors will go through the PCV system.
These chemical measures are certainly cost effective, when they work, compared to tearing things appart.
The pressure relief valve is not in the filter mount, as I used to expect. It is in the timing chain cover, and the oil pump is behind that too. From the pitures, the valve is on the bottom of the TTC, close to the sump and at the front corner. It has a hex head and a crush washer, copper I expect. Remove it and there is then a spring and a small piston at the end of the spring. The piston might be reluctant to come out. You are wishing that it is stuck part way open. Somehow you need to remove it, and you might want to spray some carb cleaner in there once its it out if you detected that there was any fouling. If you use carb cleaner, do put some oil in the piston when putting things back together. So its not to hard to get at. If the piston has any scoring, try to smooth that off. If aluminum, you can roll highspots down with a round hard steel piece, perhaps the shank of a drill. If it runs smooth in the bore thats all you need.
Carb spray in the sump will not reach the screen, that is off to one side. Perhaps if you could bend the spray tube without collapsing it.
posted by 65.68.10...
, Mon, 2 Feb 2004 06:54:58
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