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Yet more clarification Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Thu, 15 Apr 2004 06:17:54
In Reply to: Saab '94 2.3L auto.non turbo timing chain, RANDY IN FLORIDA, Mon, 12 Apr 2004 14:48:27 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Of course the timing chain can be removed. You will need to replace it if you want the engine to run. There is a separate chain that runs the balance shafts. This chain can be removed (and left out of the engine). There will be some increase in vibration - the amount varies from engine to engine.
The balance shaft sprockets weren't properly hardened on earlier cars, so they would wear very fast. If the balance shaft chain came loose, occasionally it would do no damage, but often it would take the main timing chain off, doing significant damage. The solution is to replace the balance shaft chain and install new, hardened balance shaft sprockets. Many folks don't like doing this because the sprockets are surprisingly expensive, even for a Saab.
My opinion on this - if you're going to the effort of pulling the timing chain cover to replace the chains, do the whole thing. Replace chains, guides, and sprockets. If you save the $150-200 and leave the balance shaft chain off, and the engine has a lot of vibration, you're going to have to do a lot of work again. It depends - if you're the type of guy that can do major engine work over a weekend and still have time left over (and I know folks that easily swap engines as of an evening), then save the $$ and see. However, if major engine work is, well, major, then you don't want to do the job again.
'94 is tricky. I'm never quite sure when Saab went to the hardened sprockets.
Of course, the rattle may not be the chain at all. Saab engines like to rattle. My '92 (9000, 2.3 NA) has been rattling since new. Quite often this is due to a lazy lifter. If you hear the rattle above idle, that's more of an issue. It can be a worn timing chain, or it can be as simple as a worn guide. I'm not a big believer in just replacing the chain (rolling-in method) - it replace the chain, but a worn chain usually has worn guides, and the problem isn't fixed.
As to a used engine - you'll be replacing a known problem for an unknown one. You know the maintenance that has gone into your car. What is the history of the 'new' used engine? Did it have regular oil and coolant changes? Why does it no longer have a car attached? If you can assure yourself that the engine was well treated, and just happened to be unlucky enough to be in a chassis that got rear-ended, then it's a nice thought - 160K miles is a lot. But if you don't know the history of the 'new' engine, then you may very well be trading a know problem for a bunch of new ones.
posted by 192.249....
, Thu, 15 Apr 2004 06:17:54 <-- Viewing This Message, Tue, 13 Apr 2004 12:20:44
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