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cylinder head re-torque and idler pulleys (longish) Posted by MJM [Email]  (#872) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from MJM) on Mon, 19 Apr 2004 11:59:58
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I joined the club and re-torqued the cylinder head on my '95 SET (111k) last night, here are a few comments. Two different torx sizes are required to remove the cam cover - one for the DI cassette and the brace for the oil filler tube, and a larger size for the cam cover and air injection pipe bracket. Sorry, I don't recall those sizes. The head bolts were indeed external torx, #16. Sears sells a set including the E16 for about $20. All the bolts were pretty easy to break free except for #4 which was a real bear. Perhaps that means the retorque was needed. I used a 5-85 ft/lb torque wrench for the two torqued steps (duh) and a 10" flex handle for the final 90 degrees. Had I been thinking I would have picked up the 15" flex handle, or something even longer; cranking that last 90 degrees on 10 bolts wore me out with the short handle.
All that is old stuff though. On reassembly I used several small dabs of high-temp gasket rtv to try and hold the cam cover gasket in place while I positioned the cover. Upon torquing the cam cover down I noticed that the rtv had squeezed out in several places. Fearing the worst, that the same thing had happened on the inside of the gasket, I pulled the cover off again to double check. Sure enough there were little worms of rtv that had squeezed out on the inside. Clearly that was a bad idea that cost me at least 30 minutes of clean-up. There was no way the outer cam cover gasket was going to stay in place on it's own though. I finally hit on the idea of using the little sandwich baggie twist-ties in about half a dozen cam cover bolt holes to hold the gasket in place. Once I got the cover in place I gently slid the twist ties out and finished bolting the cover down. Wish I'd thought of that the first time.
Idler pulleys - When I was looking for leaks after the re-torque job I noticed that the upper idler pulley was noisy (again). I replaced the first one at about 58k miles, now the replacement is dead 53k miles later. Just like clockwork. On the downside, the pulley is now about $50 at the dealer, but by asking nicely they sold it to me for the old price of $35. The lower pulley lasted about 110k miles, so maybe 50k and 100k are good replacement intervals for the upper and lower pulleys. The upper one is a 10 minute replacement, the lower about 20 minutes. I have not done the short-belt conversion.
Regards, Mike
'95 SET
111k
posted by 128.118.4...
, Mon, 19 Apr 2004 11:59:58 <-- Viewing This Message
, Mon, 19 Apr 2004 14:56:53, Mon, 19 Apr 2004 13:47:22
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