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I'm having a weird idle problem on my standard 94 900s 2.3 non-turbo 180k. The idle speed is about roughly 3000 rpm at P and N.
My Saab, standard 94 900s 2.3 non-turbo 180k seems to have lost a step as of late. with abnormal idling, doesn’t have that peppy response/power that it used to. No CEL. MPGs has gone from 27.5 to 25 since I started having this problem.
It is not isolated to the car initially being cold in the morning. It seems to happen after the car has been driven for a while, particularly when at a stoplight, it is most noticeable, The car wants to keep going at the traffic light (most times driving the highway I have hardly to push the accelerator since the car is keeping the rpm by itself and even wanting to go faster without a push).
It all started a few weeks ago when the temperature got below 20 one night and the problem started the next day and didn't go away when the weather warmed up, If the car is cold driven changing from 2nd to 3rd is a cause for the clutch pedal to stiffen up and a sudden jerk to the car to rev up rapidly and similarly from 3rd to 4th (at times a tap on the accelerator will cause the rpm to come to normal setting) but the worst revving is from 4th to 5th as I push the pedal I can feel the engine wanting to rev uncontrollably upward and a struggle to get to 5th and the clutch pedal at it's stiffest to change , but when there there is no problem till I want to slow down, now after driving for a while and wanting to slow down, downshifting the clutch causes the engine wanting to keep the higher rpm and hence a struggle to slow down and at times screeching of the clutch plate and smell of burnt rubber, if I start breaking hard to slow down well in advance and actually slow the car then the downshifting is a lot easier, still not normal but considerably easier with less reluctance from the car to rev down.
Generally if I let the car warm up for 10 minutes it performs a lot better with regard to up shiffiting but the problem is still present.
Checked and cleaned the IAC (idle air control), without any change in the abnormal idling, found a used one from the junkyard and cleaned and oiled and replaced the original, no difference.
Also cleaned the throttle body and replace all the hoseses coming from IAC, Cannot find an obvious vac leak anywhere...
Found a little oil inside the distributor cap, but cleaned thoroughly with no obvious difference.
The plugs were replaced at 160K last year about the time gasket on the head cylinder was replaced, had a bit of problem in September when it stopped cold in the highway and ended up changing the fuel filter(not the culprit) and later the crank sensor by the mechanic, but been fine since.
Would appreciate any hints or ideas about the cause, I have finally got the car to perform according to it’s rep for fine handling and don’t want let go without a serious cause.
The CELL is not coming on, Would you please explain why the engine tries to rev up when I am standing still at a traffic light, and how does pressing the clutch pedal have this much effect on the revving of the engin and getting so stiff that it hardly goes down especially going from 4th to 5th gear, and is this going to have consequences for the clutch if it keeps it up.
Thanks a lot, you are the savior of entire BB.
I will measure the TPS today, any other sensor that might be the cause
I know that o2 sensor malfunction will get CELL activated, but could the coolant temp sensor or air mass module be causing the problem , I had some oil in the distributer cap which I cleaned.
posted by 129.63.9...
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