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Replaced my headbolts (long)
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Posted by bill h. (more from bill h.) on Fri, 25 Mar 2005 07:34:02 Share Post by Email
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Even though this regards my 2000 SE, It may be of interest to 1997-1998 NG900 owners. I also own a 1994 NG900 SE (150K)which I refer to in comparison.

2000 9-3 SE, 64k. Needed a new cam cover gasket and distributor hole plug to squelch oil leaks. For the record, here is what I found on the head bolt replacement;

Easier to remove the cam cover than on my 94 SE, more hoses to move, but easier access to them. All my cam cover screws were loose, some you could remove by hand (Gee, why didn't I check this before buying the gasket and plug?) Maybe because I wanted to get at those bothersome head bolts, before I blew a head gasket.

I have been using M1 0-40 for last 20k (5k interval changes), Castrol FakeTec used by previous owner at 5 k intervals. There was much more black goo in this motor than I found in my 1994 900 SE a month ago (that car has 150k), I have been using M1 0-40 there for 50k (5k intervals, Castrol GTX Pure Dino oil for first 100k (3k intervals). So, what to conclude from this? Either FakeTec makes more sludge than the plain Castrol dino oil, or the M1 cleaning effect takes a long while, or there is some issue with the pollution control systems on the newer car that contribute to the abundance of goo.

Now for the bolts. I do not have any head gasket issues yet, and I wanted to do this before I did. Head size is E16. All were found to be fairly snug and took 38-53 ft/lbs to break loose. Number 10 bolt was at 48 lbs, this is usually the loose one. All bolts were the gray type Anders cites in his photo, code stamped BH on head. I used a dial calipers to measure the length of each bolt for determination of amount of strech (or poor QA in bolt manufacturing, however you want to look at it). All measured between 4.521" and 4.528", and not suprisingly the bolts that took more torque to remove happened to be the longer (or more stretched) ones. According to the previous owner, these bolts were never retorqued. I was surprised to find them fairly tight as this is often not the case with others.

The new bolts appear to be the type in my 1994 SE, top not threaded and no washer (got 'em from Eeuroparts) and are code stamped VRG 18.9. These bolts are 4.434" - 4.436" (end to end)indicating the amount of stretch my original bolts had was on the order of .085" - .090"., or that the bolts are merely shorter from end to end.

Unlike my 94 SE cam cover, the 2000 has no little gasket securing nubs in the gasket channel. The little nubs on the 94 helped secure the gaskets so that when you flip it over for final install they stay in place without the need for any adhesive or sealant. On my 2000, there is no way to keep them in place without the aid of some help. I found something that worked well at my local AutoZone, Permatex Ultra Rubber Gasket Sealant and Dressing (# 85409). Product claims..."This flexible, non-hadening product is like a third hand, helping hold gaskets in place for easy, exact placement and is forgiving enough to allow nearly unlimited repositioning during assembly" and "the perfect compliment to installation of cut or molded rubber gaskets". I applied a very thin, continuous film with a small screwdriver only to the cam cover side and it worked great eliminating a lot of cussing on my part.

So now I have the new, old style bolts at the old style torque value, new cam cover gasket and distributor hole plug and grime under my fingernails. Hope nothing leaks.

posted by 24.236.8...


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