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Re: Installing a manual boost controller questions >
Posted by Dean (more from Dean) on Mon, 19 Mar 2001 14:10:44
In Reply to: Installing a manual boost controller questions >, Keith [Profile/Gallery]
, Mon, 19 Mar 2001 13:34:54
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The controller that you have selected, and all of the others with spring-ball by-stable designs do not need a connection to the intake for the bleed discharge.
You will leave the BCP wired up, and leave its discharge hose connected to it and the intake. Take the hose that comes from the turbo scroll hose barb and disconnect it at the BCP. Now remove the hose from the wastegate actuator and hook that up to the now empy hose barb on the BCP. The BCP is now isolated, and its ports are closed to protect it's internals from dirt. Now connect your controller between the hose barb on the turbo and the wastegate actuator. You might want to remove the original hose from the turbo hose barb, depends on hose sizes etc.
Secure hoses with nylon wire ties.
Watch that things are not close to the exhaust manifold or are able to lean in that direction. Mount the controller so that you can get at it for adjustments without getting burnt either.
I think that you will be the first reporting on how this controller works. We have see posts about it in the past.
Have high octane pump gas in the tank. Work such at this should always be in conjuction with a K&N drop in filter, and a Saab Sports exhaust or better.
You will then slowly increase the boost in 2nd gear runs until you get fuel cuts, then back off the pressure until that no longer happens. The ECU will reset as soon as the pressure drops a bit. There will not be any error codes or need to reset or disconnect the ECU. Often the generic instructions with the controller will suggest that that might be a possibility.
And for the record and other readers. Please state your model year, mods thus far and planned.
95SET 120000 miles, TurboXS controller and bypass, numerous intake mods, Saab Sports exhaust.
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