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sway bar installed...
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Posted by RickP (more from RickP) on Sat, 13 Apr 2002 22:01:32 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: sway bar has arrived..., RickP, Fri, 12 Apr 2002 22:12:19
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This morning I installed the SAS bar on my base 1999 9-3. Here's a brief summary and initial driving impressions. Think this will be helpful for owners of the base 9-3, rather than the SE.

First, thanks to the advice of REM and Dean. Their detailed review of installation tips was heplful in being prepared.

First, the bar seems rather crude in looks/design. Something like a high school machine shop person would have put together. Wasn't initially impressed. But looks don't always matter..

It is zinc plated steel, heavy, and much bigger than the stock bar. I primed and painted using Rustoleum. The holes for mounting the bolts needed to be deburred, somewhat sloppy. But a dremel tool with a carbide tip did the trick in smoothing out the burrs. Do this before you prime and paint.

Also, the holes in this bar seem smaller than described by REM and Dean. According to SAS, they've made design changes. The holes seem smaller and it didn't appear that there would be trouble in seating washers when bolting to the axle. Finally, the bar came with stainless steel hardware - 3/8 - 1 1/2 course thread hex bolts, washers for the nuts and bolts (to seat against the axle, and the nuts.

I took REM's advice and purchased Grade 8 hardware - 3/8 1-1/2, course thread, grade 8 washers, and grade 8 nuts.

INSTALLATION:
Used my rhino ramps to lift the rear - this lifted the car with plenty of room to work.

The old bar came off incredibly easy - almost too easy. The car is a 1999
and the winters here have been mild so rust was minimal. Primarily on the original bolts where the old bar and axle meet. Removal is simple, loosen the bolts - which are thread up - the 2 nuts on each side of the bar are connected by a plate. The nut/plate removed easily. Total removal time - 5 minutes. (no kidding).

I installed the new bar by simply placing the new hardware into place. Threads up, with a large grade 8 washer between the bolt and bar, and a smaller washer (that came with the SAS bar) between the grade 8 nut and axle. Put all 4 bolts loosely into place, and pull bar back as far as it will go - it only moved 1/8 - 1/16" of an inch back.

Tighten the nuts with a 9/16" 6 sided socket until pretty tight. Then torque to 25-26 ft. lbs - using my Home Depot el-cheapo beam torque wrench. (btw..heed advice of others on the board..invest in a real torque wrench - click type with pivoting head)

The trickiest part is hlding the nuts in place while you ratchet the bolts tight. The nuts are right next to the brakk/abs lines. YOU NEED TO BE CAREFUL. I used a 9/16" box wrench to hold the nuts while I tightened the bolts. Just go slow and careful, no jerky movements that could cause brake line damage. Total installation time about 40 minutes - including time for playing with the kids in between.

NET..NET..this is incredibly easy to install..as long as your original bolts come off easy.

I plan on greasing the bolts/nuts, and area between to minimize rust.

DRIVING IMPRESSION:
HANDLING - Remember my car is a base 9-3 5speed, 1999, with 15" rims...I found the ride to be much more controlled, and steering to be more responsive, I didn't experience the "increased effort to steer" that others have mentioned. Overall steering feel was much better. In curves the car is defintely well behaved. However, in a 180 degree fast tight turn, the front suspension experienced more body roll than before. Assume that the stiffer rear may stress more of the front suspension components. It is a definite improvement in overall feel, and perceived handling and control.

RIDE COMFORT - It actually wasn't too harsh riding. Maybe because it's a base 9-3 (no stiffer shocks, springs, no SE suspension upgrades) In fact, I found the car to ride a bit more comfortably.

RATTLES - one thing I did notice is that the car seems to now have an additional rattle coming from rear seats or hatch - an interior rattle, not outside. Perhaps this is due to the harder ride, although I didn't perceive it to drive that hard. I've added electrical tape to the ususal suspected areas of rattles so we'll see how it drives tomorrow.

Overall impression - $125 investment that we'll worth the money. It is true, this is probably the single investment in the 9-3 (at least base 9-3) that's affordable, and makes a difference in everyday driving.

I look forward to Monday when I go to work. I have a 40 mile commute thru the backroads of Fairfield county Connecticut, and Westchester county - lots of twisties and the bar will get a full workout.

FOLLOW UP – as mentioned before, will grease up the bolts and nuts to minimize rust. Also will recheck torque after a few days to make sure all is tight. Will keep old bar, of course and mounting hardware, just in case.

Hope this helps all of you


posted by 12.79.58...
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