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Perhaps using the term chipped is not good when you need to get the ECU modified or exchanged.
If you don't have a Sports exhaust system now, get a Stage II as your steel exhaust system will rot out sooner or later.
Stage I or II will come with a drop in K&N type filter. You should do a 3" duct mod for the air box, this is a nice DIY.
And a Viggen IC would be good too. Check to see which you have. If the discharge from the turbo compressor goes to the IC under the battery, you have the old style IC and it is quite restrictive and a limitation when doing other upgrades. If you have the old style and don't install the Viggen IC, you should remove the alumiunum hard pipe which goes to the IC from the turbo compressor and remove a silencer which is pressed into it. This part usually breaks up when removed, which is no loss at all. The throttle body transistion casting (TBTC) is very restrictive and should be removed and the small end ground out to remove the large sharp edged ID restriction that it creates. This will improve power and make the engine smoother as well. If you get the modified IC and want a faster throttle response, a SMBC with a mild setting will improve responsiveness.
You should not increase the boost in an engine that is not in good mechanical condition. You should use high octane pump gas and Mobil 1. You have very low miles, so you should be fine. I suggest M1 0W40, Purolator PureOne PL 10241 and Techron Conentrate 3x's per year. Use BPCR6ES11 plugs and gap to .035" Ignore the .039" spec in the owners manual or on an underhood sticker. This is simply a restatement of the same spec of .9mm, -.1 +.2 The .035" will give you a longer in-spec gap life.
I suspect that your coolant may not have been changed and flushed, it might be time, not from miles, but from age. I would also inspect the upper idler wheel for the same reason.
Nice find. Never force the CV top, that can bust things. Read the manual carefully about its operation.
See the link for a 1999 non-HOT.
posted by 207.43.195...
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