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In the front the camber was not changed, some 'noise' in the reading. There is cross camber of .2 to .3 degree.
Front – Camber Left -0.9 -1.6 0.0 -0.9
Front – Camber Right -1.2 -1.6 0.0 -1.1
The total toe-in was reduced from .30 to .20
Front – Toe Left 0.25 0.05 0.15 0.10
Front – Toe Right 0.05 0.05 0.15 0.10
Total 0.30 0.15 0.30 0.20
The rear axle has a cross camber of .4 degree.
Rear – Camber Left -1.5 -2.0 -1.4 -1.5
Rear – Camber Right -1.9 -2.0 -1.4 -1.9
This is not bad. The spec for my Passat is 20' of cross camber. Thats .3 degree. When I had the alignment done on it after fitting Bilstien HD shocks, we got that to zero.
If something is moving, then we do not know what the current numbers are.
When you rotate tires, there can be some pulling until the tires get used to their new positions. Don't forget to check the tire pressures.
The amount of acceptable cross camber will be vary with rim diameters and tire type. Tires with stiffer sidewalls will be more sensitive to alignment issues.
Your front cambers are -1.2 and -.9. If you were to move the top of one strut you could correct this. Lets say the strut top is 15" above the ball joint (thats a guess). And you want to change the camber by .25 degree. Then the top of the strut needs to change by 15"*sin(.25)=.065". so thats 1/16". You can elongate the strut mounting holes by that amount. You can increase one or decrease the other. The spec is 0 to -1.6. If you make an adjustment of this type, you will be changing the total toe-in and will also affect steering wheel centering.
If the subframe has some play on its mounting bolts, the subframe can be shifted. Moving the subframe 1/32" to the left would tend to balance things out too. That would not change your total toe-in, but would tend to make the steering wheel not centered, but that is purely an cosmetic annoyance.
So first look for tire pressure or tire/pressure issues. You can swap the tires front to back one side at a time. If tires are not the problem, then look for mechanical things like mounts and bushings. If thats ok, look for signs that the subframe has been moving. Look for wear marks on the frame where the SF mounts. Check the forward mounts carefully. There is one bolt at these ends and the SB is soft and weak and these arms cam move even if the rest does not. Then consider moving the SF or a strut mount.
Don't change geometry if a tie-rod or ball joint has developed slop, fix that first.
posted by 66.142.22...
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