Re: Almost 70k time to get out the torque wrench! - Saab NG900 & OG9-3 Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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Re: Almost 70k time to get out the torque wrench!
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Posted by PM (more from PM) on Thu, 7 Apr 2005 06:36:00 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Almost 70k time to get out the torque wrench!, MikeinME, Thu, 7 Apr 2005 01:16:51
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Cabin air inlet - clean the water drains. The one on the firewall below the air filter is easy to overlook, shaped like an elephant trunk, clogs with dirt easily.

Temp sender - Make sure it is the thermostat going out and not the temp sender which is close to it.

Coolant flush - since you have the cooling system apart anyway, you can do a good flush.

Hoses - You can pressure test the cooling system before you take it apart, or pay someone to at least do a quickie test to see if it will hold pressure. Inspect the upper, and if you can get to it, lower radiator hose. The upper hose was the first to fail on my car, the rest of the Saab hoses seem to stand up very well.

Hose clamps - have a couple new clamps on hand for the hoses you take off. The Saab hoses are thin-wall, and the Saab clamps have upturned edges to avoid cutting into them.

Tensioner Pulley - If your model has the plastic tensioner pulley, check it carefully (If doing preventive maintenance I would replace it at the same time).

Power steering - Look for power steering fluid leaks below the reservoir, at the firewall, and on the front cross-member of the subframe where the first pressure line from the power steering pump goes down along the side of the radiator (need a strong flashlight for that one). Follow the power steering lines and look for cracks in the hoses, or seepage from hard pipe crimp joints.

PCV system - The PCV valve is plastic and needs periodic replacement, or at least a quick check to make sure it is not full of crud and still working as a check valve. Look for leaks from the grommet at the valve cover nipple. The grommet, nipple, and PCV valve are inexpensive parts (less than $20 total online).

Vac lines - Check vacuum lines that are close to the engine for crumbling rubber and replace as needed (I wish I had just done all of mine when the first one cracked).

AC - You can check the refrigerant pressure with a gauge for $10-15. I could have saved myself a few hundred $$ if I had known enough to start doing that once a year.

Electric Fan - inspect insulation on wires going to the fan motor for cracks.

Battery cables - inspect for corrosion of the copper wires at the clamps (not easy to see unless you are looking for it).


posted by 69.212.21...


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