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The $950 probably isn't too bad, depending on what's included. I think it's a pretty big job to do yourself. I've also read (and seen some links explaining) a conversion from the cable clutch to a hydraulic system--apparently the clutch cable can be a problem as a search of this board would show.
"Clutch slipping" is something you'll recognize easily when it happens (at least when the clutch is really gone). The clutch plate is a flat surface made a material that wears away (slowly) that presses hard against a flat metal plate on the back of the engine when the car is moving (clutch petal out). When you push the clutch petal in, the engine keeps turning, but the clutch plate moves away from the flywheel (the metal plate on the engine), allowing the car to idle and the driver to change gears--because the transmission parts are not turning, etc. When the clutch slips--for example, when you drive up a hill--the engine will rev up and the car will not go any faster. The flywheel is moving faster than the clutch.
You can make the clutch slip--usually not something you want to do because it causes additional wear on the clutch--by holding the clutch part way in and revving up the engine. In fact, this happens to some degree every time that you start off on the car. Drivers are warned not to "ride the clutch"--hold your foot on the petal while driving--or try to keep the car stationary on a hill without using the brake (by keeping the clutch part way out).
If the clutch works--shifts are fine, doesn't slip, not too hard to push (have a mechanic that knows Saabs test drive it to determine--then reading up on cable fixes (lubrication, etc.) might be all that's needed.
A new clutch never hurts, but may not be too noticeable unless the old one is bad.
Joel
posted by 66.243.23...
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