1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
1995 900S, 2.3 liter atmospheric, 5-speed, 182k miles.
Kudos to damien for showing that an NG900 radiator can be replaced with considerable savings. As he mentioned, it does require much disassembly. Years ago, I replaced a radiator in an early 80's Toyota Celica. Total time from start to finish was less than 30 minutes. Not so here... The car is assembled like a puzzle in sequence.
The replacement for the four cylinder nonturbo engine was similar to what damien experienced. After reading damien's post, I ordered a new radiator, two hoses and clamps from eEuroparts.com. I studied the places on the new radiator where the fan assembly slides into and where the A/C condenser is suspended from prior to proceeding.
My approach was from outside in. To reach the two screws securing the A/C condenser to the radiator, the headlights have to be removed. To remove the headlights, the grill and corner lights must be removed. The corner lights (two Torx screws loosened) can hang by their electrical cables, the headlights (six Torx screws removed, electrical connectors disconnected) need to be removed. These components are easily removed with a little finesse. Upon completion, the front of the car is completely open.
Two small plastic air baffles flanking the radiator were removed by unclipping. Two 8mm screws securing two large plastic air baffles and the condenser were removed near the bottom of the condenser, freeing the condenser and baffles from the radiator. The condenser needs to be unhooked (lifted slightly vertically and brought down) from the radiator, and then supported at the bottom. The A/C piping is rigid and if broken will negate whatever money you are saving by doing this. I used cut, folded cardboard as the supports. That completed the outside disassembly.
Moving inside the engine compartment, the cooling system was drained. I worked from the top down. I originally wanted to minimize what was removed/disconnected, but you cannot avoid it. The two large radiator hoses (four clamps) and high point vent hose (two clamps and two white plastic clips) were removed. I also removed the head tank hose to the engine and removed the head tank for cleaning/flushing.
Even though a nonturbo, to remove the fan/shroud assembly easily required disconnecting the air injection hose where it couples to a check valve located on the exhaust injection manifold (a hose clamp), and both low and high pressure hoses (a hose clamp, one fitting) on the power steering pump. This could have been messy, but measures were taken to prevent getting hydraulic fluid on the serpentine belt. Plenty of paper towels and a paper cup were helpful in catching fluid. Even though very little fluid appeared to be spilled, the power steering fluid reservoir was emptied. Make sure you have a container of P/S fluid on hand for reassembly. There is a small o-ring on the high pressure hose coupling that can be lost. The ends of the P/S hoses were covered with plastic bags and taped. The three hoses were then pushed away from the radiator for clearance.
Two electrical connectors were disconnected and two 8mm screws were removed to free the fan assembly. The fan assembly was lifted out.
The radiator has an A/C conpressor clutch fuse/red wire secured to it using two plastic clips. The clips were pushed out from the radiator, releasing the wire with attached clips. The two metal clips securing the radiator that damien mentioned were removed by pinching together, releasing the upper rubber "doughnuts" that hold the radiator to the car. The radiator was free at this point, only located at the bottom by two pins in two rubber mounts. For additional clearance, the battery was removed before removing the leaking radiator. With a little jiggling, the radiator came out.
Installation was the reverse of the above. Before installing the new radiator, I ran one of the 8mm screws into each of the four attachment points where the fan assembly and condenser screw to the radiator in order to cut new threads in the plastic for easier screw turning. Only holes are molded in the attachment points.
I used a small, 1/4 inch ratchet to limit torque during most of the disassembly/reassembly, and when tightening hose clamps. Care must be exercised since the male sleeves on the radiator are plastic, and while you desire a leak free connection, you do not want to crack your new radiator!
After everything was put back together, and all connections checked, I filled the P/S reservoir and filled the cooling system with distilled water as a flush. The next day (no freezing weather), drained and filled the cooling system with a 50/50 mix of Saab antifreeze (blue).
The job looks more intimidating than it is. The total amount of time will be determined by the time spent cleaning parts and gaining familiarity as you go. As always, the first time takes the longest.
Good luck.
posted by 24.229.21...
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