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Balljoint about $250 plus labor....
Posted by David Ingram (more from David Ingram) on Tue, 25 Oct 2005 10:27:51
In Reply to: Looking at used Saab, need crash course, jdguay, Tue, 25 Oct 2005 06:49:35
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...for the better-respected part, anyway. Believe it or not, in common with many cars these days, when the ball joint goes the entire control arm must be replaced. There's a ScanTech part available for about $150, but posters to this board seem to agree that the cheaper part doesn't last.
Other than that, there are oil sludging issues in many of these cars, and some models were susceptible to balance shaft sprocket wear, causing damage to the oil pump internals.
You can easily inspect for sludge without removing the valve cover; let's assume that if the car's running well and you pass the Oil pressure test (see below) then the car's probably in good mechanical order.
Oil pressure test: turn the key to the ON position (not START yet) and look for the oil pressure symbol, a little oil spigot icon, to appear in the upper right of the instrument panel. If it doesn't, then the switch is malfunctioning and you won't be able to continue with the test. If it does light up, start the car and watch for the light to extinguish, and stay extinguished. Sometimes if the car's developing low oil pressure, you'll see the oil light flicker. This would be a sign to possibly walk away, although I've obtained a beater exhibiting this trait and I plan to see how long it takes to blow itself to smithereens. Could go for a while.
There are assorted other issues which I'll let the more experienced chime in about (including any corrections or omissions I've made in this post).
posted by 155.212.49...
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