1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Keep the mindset that if someone else can do it, you can do it. This is a very basic list, but should get your bases covered. Good luck!
Starting with fluids:
Begin by checking the oil. It should be at or just below the full line and amber colored. If it is black, change it and it's filter.
Look at the coolant level in the overflow tank. Use a hydrometer (available at Wal-mart or most automotive stores) to determine the boiling point of the coolant. If it is low, drain the coolant, fill the system with water, run the vehicle for 30 minutes, let it cool, drain the water and refill with a 50/50 of fresh coolant.
Brake fluid: This should be the color of cooking oil. If it is black, you will need to flush the brake system. Use a turkey baster to remove much of the fluid from the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with fresh Dot 4 Synthetic fluid. Have an assistant pump the brakes and slowly bleed the old fluid from each caliper.
Power Steering Fluid: This should be either an amber color or a dark red color, depending on the type used. Run a bit of fluid onto a clean white paper towel and look at it; if there is any "sludge" or it smells old or burned, disconnect the hoses, drain the reservoir and refill with fresh fluid.
Onto visual checks:
Pop open the air cleaner assembly and remove the air cleaner. If it is dirty, replace it. Remove the intake hose and run your finger inside the throttle body opening. If this is dirty, clean it carefully with intake cleaner. Squeeze the intake hoses and ensure that they are flexible and tight. If you find any cracks, replace the tubing.
Squeeze all coolant hoses; they shoud be soft, but firm. If they feel flimsy or squishy in spots, replace them. Check their clamps. They should be clean, free of rust and tight.
Look at the drivebelt surface (the rubber, ribbed side). It should be flexible and smooth. If there are cracks or the backside is frayed, replace the belt with a new one.
Check the igniton cables (V6). They should be clean, soft and in good condition. Bend a section of cable around your thumb and check it's jacket for cracks. If you notice any hardening, cracks or corrosion of the cable, replace the entire set.
Battery cables: These should be clean, tight and free of corrosion. If corrosion is noted, remove the terminal and clean with a terminal brush. If the cable itself is corroded, replace the cable.
Push down on the front bumper, several times, while watching the strut mounts. If you notice that the strut nut tends to move around a significant amount, replace the strut mounts.
Crawl under the car and inspect the engine mounts. If you notice major cracks or the rubber is seperated from the metal frame (in large chunks), have the mount replaced.
Inspect the stanchion arm and control arm bushings. The stanchion arm bushings tend to crack and work their way out of the stanchion arm. If this happens, replace the arm or bushing. Inspect the control arm; look at the ball joint boot for signs of grease. Ensure that the boot is in good conditon. If it is broken, the joint will likely be comprimised; replace the arm.
Remove a wheel and look at the brakes. The rotors should be worn, but not heavily grooved. Look at the pads. They should have a minimum of 3mm of pad surface left. Any less and you should replace the pads. Also, check calipers for signs of leaking. Any leaks should be fixed immediately.
While under the car, squeeze the inner and outer CV boots. If they are torn or show heavy cracks, remove the driveshaft and repack/replace the boot.
posted by 67.172.146...
, Fri, 10 Feb 2006 18:11:18
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
