1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Battery can show good voltage, then as soon as a good load is applied it can tank - many stores don't even test them properly... I've had cases where they say it's fine, only to cause problems, and in the end after swapping and testing myself it's clearly a bad battery (thanks NAPA)
Load devices are 50-100+ and are required to test right.
What I'm now thinking regarding Saab's DIC is that it's possible that a majority of the DIC failures are in fact low voltage related - Integrated chips don't tolerate voltages out of range and require voltage regulators to keep it from going to high, but it's more complicated to keep a minimum voltage. However, it wouldn't be very hard for the DIC builder to modify the design to allow for this and prevent chip failures (the smoking smell indicates burned devices like this) which I suspect is the current recall.
On my own car, the prev. owner had the DIC replaced at 66k on sudden complete failure in early 02 - the plugs had been replaced once near 30k, and again at 60k. Shortly after the DIC failure the battery was replaced w/ a sears diehard international - no notes on why etc. though
it worked for for 2 more years, then 1.5 years later to this jan,
my car was running a bit odd recently, and I found a bad cell on loading - it would drop to 6 volts in some cases without the engine running and the lights on after 5 seconds(should never be that low since I trickle charged beforehand to full) I didn't change the plugs yet (have 20k) but it seems to be running better since I bought a NEW Optima battery and installed.
I have ordered new plugs since increased gap does present more voltage requirements on the DIC and better safe than sorry with this thing...
The only issue with using an Optima battery on Saabs is the terminal placement being backwards (and the stores don't list our models)-
but the OEM cables have enough length to swap sides and still have plenty of give on engine rotation, except for the ground wire for the body (the small guage one) For now I just ran it accross the battery top to the original mounting point, but tonight I'm going to make an extension that will bolt to the original and follow the same path - want to follow original patch to design, and need to make sure and solder the connection to avoid possible bad grounds etc. Probably overkill but should look like OEM.
Only other issue is placing that pos. terminal closer to the side rail - if you wrench the nut and hit the rail you'll arc through the wrench, so I have the terminal oriented back to avoid - noone touches the car but me anyway!
I'll post pics if I can find my USB cable for the Sony...
posted by 68.91.1...
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