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Hello fellow Saabanistas!
Here's what I did to flush the manual transmission fluid and fill with Redline MTL on my 2000 Viggen Vert.
First, why'd I go with MTL? From searching this board and the Performance board, it looked like a number of people had good results with MTL. Additionally, it is a cheaper fluid than the SAAB 0063 MTF.
See the link below for where I bought MTL at $6.25/bottle at $5 flat rate shipping.
When I am finished with my MTL stash, I may try Redline Shockproof Lite.
I do plan on doing the flush and fill with Redline every 10k miles.
Now, here was my step by step plan to change out the existing MTF to Redline MTL:
1 Drain existing transmission oil.
2 Pour in and let drain 2 quarts of old (SH-rated) 10w-30 oil.
3 Fill with approx 1.8L _w-30 cheap oil (used 10w-30 Advance Auto brand).
4 Drive car for a 2 to 3 mins and run through gears, especially focus on 1st gear for at least 20 seconds.
5 Drain and repeat steps 2-4.
6 Fill with Redline MTL.
Tools used: Breaker bar, socket extensions, socket wrench, 8mm allen head socket, 8mm socket, 8mm allen wrench/key, vice grips
Notes:
(1) I did the 2x flush sequence since I really didn't know was in the tranny. I don't have all the maintenance records from the two previous owners.
(2) There are three plugs associated with the trans fluid: fill, drain and level. They require an 8mm allen head to remove. The fill and level are relatively easy to remove, while the drain is a PITA.
Genuinesaab.com has the plug locations in their "Service Info" link.
(3) When you remove the plugs, there will be a LOUD POP sound like you broke something. You (hopefully) didn't break anything except for the loctite that was put on the threads at the factory.
(4) Be sure to clean out the hex head recess of the plug before you insert the allen socket/key. You DON'T want to strip out the plug!!!
(5) There are no torque specs (that I know) for the plugs. I just tightened them but not too tight.
Anyway, here's a narrative of what I did. BTW, to see how difficult it would be remove a plug, I decided to remove then retighten the fill and level plugs a "few" days before actually doing the flush and fill.
Day 1
I decided to get the fill plug off just to see how hard it was going to be...had my plug removal tool (breaker bar, extensions and 8mm Allen/hex head socket) on the plug and started cranking hard, then POP!
I was like, "Great, I just broke something off!" But nothing was broken except for the loctite or whatever that was put on the plug at the factory !
Day 2
I was able to at least, take the level plug out! ANOTHER POP SOUND ! Didn't cry this time, but still thought I MIGHT'VE broken something this time around, but no, the plug was just loosened.
I had to remove the driver's side tire and used a few extensions, a breaker bar and the 8mm Allen socket. The brakes were in the way, but I managed!
This was actually the first time I took off the a Saab tire, too! I can see why people bit!h about the lug bolts. Kind of a PITA!
Day 3 (Flush and Fill day)
So, with being able to remove the fill and level plugs, I thought that the drain plug would be just a bit more difficult but not too much of a problem! BULLS***! It was really a PITA!
First thing I noticed while laying under my car was that the short leg of my 8mm Allen wrench was just short enough to fit between the subframe and the drain plug. I have seen where others had to grind or cut down the leg to get it to fit.
So, to loosen the plug, I tried:
1. Vice grips and a hammer
2. 8mm socket and extension and a hammer
all of which didn't work! I even f***d my 8mm no-name socket and had to go to my craftsman set! (I'll never buy generic if I can afford not to).
Finally, I used the 8mm socket (with a 1/4"-to-1/2" adapter) and my breaker bar to get the blasted plug free!
Now, while draining the old fluid, I noticed that it was thick (sludgy?) and greyish-black, so I am definitely glad to have gone to the trouble to change it. Also, I saw the magnetic part of the plug had metallic "mud" on it...perhaps a 1/4 teaspoon or less.
The flush consisted of
1. Pouring in two quarts of old 5w-30 Havoline (SH-rated) oil and just letting it all drain out.
2. Filling up with about 1.8 liters of Advanced Auto 10w-30 oil.
3. Driving around for about 2-3 minutes while using all gears (1st gear for about 20-30secs).
4. Drain.
5. Repeat steps 2-4.
6. Then finally filled up with 2 quarts of Redline MTL.
I saw during the 1st drain sequence of the 10w-30 that the oil was slightly greyish. The oil looked clean during the 2nd drain sequence.
Lastly, I was surprised to see that Redline MTL is, well, red (or at least reddish-purple).
Anywho, my shifts are improved, but not Honda-like (don't hate, that's the only car with manual transmission that I've owned). The shifts are definitely less "knotchy" are certainly more "fluid".
So, that's how I did it.
HAVE FUN!
NV
posted by 68.10.202...
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