1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
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Symptoms-The usual,stumbling under load; dying then restarting, but I got it home!
Process- I read all the blogs about cutting an access hole. Couldn't bring myself to do it. Location area is not flat, making a proper cover after difficult. Wires and fuel lines are directly under the body metal, creating potential for damge while cutting, not to mention danger. Few realize just how volatile gasoline and fumes are. Good time for a warning, I.E breaking a drop lite bulb while under the car could result in an explosion; kill you. If you smoke (as I do) do it in the next county. I used a battery powered lantern. Anyway, I figured that I could remove the tank, with all of the benefits of better access to the job, in not much more time then cutting a hole and covering it after.
The job- I supported the car on its wheels, which keeps the axle up (better?) 3 short pieces of 2X10 per side. Ramps will block access in front of the rear tires. This way I could use the proper rear jacking points. You are not supposed to jack the rear using the rear axle as some have. I cleaned the strap bolts with a wire brush, chased the threads as far as I could with a die(8mm, 1.25) Held the j part of the bolt with vice grips so as not to twist the straps. I had to carefully break apart all of the 4 hose clamps from the filler neck. 2 after the tank was removed, to make it easier. My pump still worked intermittently, so I threaded a brass fitting bushed with a piece of poly tubing into the output side of the filter, attached a hose, powered the pump, and pumped all of the gas into fuel cans. Filtered gas!Tank was nice and light then! ( Don't leave the pump running after the tank is empty, heat + gas fumes in enclosed space =bomb)Removed tank, slid it out to the front of the rear passenger tire. Pump ring removal. Short piece of 1X6 red oak, cut a "U" out of the end to clear components on top of pump, trimmed approx 1/4 in from side so that it fit perfectly between tabs on retaining ring, put two large adjustable wrenches on sides of board and twisted it. Easy. Be careful where you locate the board, you don't want to break anything.
The pump- got a Bosch insert from NAPA (N69424) for $90. The original insert on my car (97 900S)used semi-rigid gas tubing, some of it preformed to a curve, inside the pump assembly. I had to cut off the line from the t to the pump. Replacement hose should be submersible spec, SAE30R10. The outside of SAE30R9, fuel injection hose, will soften over time submersed. Napa has SAE30R10, but it's only available in 5/16 (NAPA #H209)and 3/8, and it's almost $20 a foot. The 5/16 is not a good fit(loose), and hard to conform to the curve it must take inside the pump assembly. In retrospect, I would seriously consider replacing the whole assembly if there is a next time, even at $400+. I see that some inserts have a smooth (not barbed) hose connection, which implies that maybe hose is used in some cars instead of the plastic stuff. It might be wise to take yours apart first to see what you are dealing with before making parts purchases. Assembly, of course, is the reverse of dis.
posted by 68.224.198...
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