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1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
After messing with the rusted j-bolts on the tank straps and rusted hose clamps on the tank for about 4 hours, I gave up and bought a 4" die grinder & a pack of 10 thin blades at Harbor freight for $30. I removed bottom of the back seat by removing the hinge pins and then removed the large plastic stopper. Once removed, you can kind of see the pump module. I slit the carpet and started to cut the floor. The hole needs to be around 6" in diameter, so I cut a 6" square. I put a piece of scrap wood inside the round hole as I cut to protect the wires and the plastic fuel line. I started with a small hole. Once I oriented the pump and the hole, I enlarged the hole. Once the hole was cut, I sprayed the 2 fuel lines with WD-40. I pressed the locking tabs slightly as I wiggled each line and pulled up the fitting. If you happen to break a tab, don't worry as there is a saftey bracket that can be used to secure the fuel lines. It's called a Fuel Line Clip, Saab part number 12806113, and it's only $3.70 at GenuineSaab. Next, I unscrewed the locking ring. I used the handles of a pair of water pump pliers to lock into the tabs of the ring, and a pair of vise grips to hold the handles of the pliers in place. I then used a pry bar to turn the pliers. The ring only needs to move about 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn before it's loose. And some WD-40 on it helps too. Note the position of the module in the tank. You might use a Sharpie to mark its position, but there are arrows in the plasic that show how it's alligned. You must rotate the module 1/4 turn clockwise to remove it from the tank - and wiggle it and tilt it, and wiggle some more, etc. It does not come straight out. Once it's out there are 4 plastic tabs that need to be expanded to open the module. I used 4 small screw drivers and pryed 1 at a time, locked each with a screw driver, until they were all loose. Once the module is apart, you will see the pump - it's in the big filter. Remove the pump and cut the fuel line at the "T". This one piece of hose will be replaced with FI hose. Carefully cut away any remaing part of the plastic hose from the "T". The plastic hose can be cut easily with an Xacto knife. The pump I bought at Napa came with a pre-bent hose and hose clamps. The guy at Napa suggested that I buy the better FI hose clamps, so I did. I forgot to use my Napa discount, so I paid full price for the pump - $120. Putting it back together is much easier, just make sure the hose clamps are tight. Put the module back together, put it back in the tank, align the arrows, tighten the locking ring and insert the fuel hoses. If you bought the fuel line clip, put that on now. I cut a piece of sheet metal to cover the hole. I used some sheet metal screws to secure it. I shortened and rounded off the ends of the screws so that they would not puncture the tank in case of an accident. I used some adhesive spray on the sheet metal to hold the carpet down, and reinstalled the seat. It took about 3 hours the first time; with the hole cut, I could do it again in 2 hours or less. If I just replaced the whole module (for $450) I could probably do it in an hour or so. I know that even if I had dropped the tank, that unscrewing the module would have been a two-person job, and being that I was working alone, cutting the access hole was the best solution for me. The check valve you are talking about is in the plastic elbow on the return fuel line. Since it's attached to the plastic fuel line, I didn't mess with it.... Ron
posted by 24.26.142...
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