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1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
To check the pump, release the tension on the serp belt (pull the tensioner forward and lock it in position as if you were changing the belt) then get your hands down there and wiggle the pulley. A bad one will usually move quite a bit. The only other thing that can go wrong with the pump is that it can leak. Look visually for that.
For the pullies, I assume you are talking about the idler pulleys. You need to replace the smaller one but you can eliminate the lower one if you want. Do a search for "short belt" here and you will find directions on that. If you decide to stay stock, be aware that the larger pully is a pain to change.
There are some posts here on water pump replacement. Do a search and find one. The only thing that I will add is that you should carefully clean the entrance to the block with a piece of #400 sandpaper before inserting the new pump. Also, be very, very careful reinserting the little bolt that holds the small metal pipe to the back of the pump. It's a steel bolt into alloy and it's very wasy to cross thread it and very expensive if you do (new pump).
Get your parts from eeuroparts.com. You can purchase the less expensive kit or the full Saab pump. The less expensive kit requires you to split the old pump and reuse the rear section. The rear section is rarely worn and can be reused in most cases. The full Saab kit in a complete plug-n-play pump. If you have less experience, I'd opt for the full replacement pump. It eliminates any issues with sealing the two halves or with degradation of the rear of the unit.
For other parts, I would check your radiator hoses. Replace if needed. I would replace the little u-shaped hose on the water pump while you are in there. It's part #11 at eeuroparts.com under the detailed listing for the cooling system. Order a gallon of the BLUE antifreeze. That's all you should need, the other gaskets come in the pump kit.
posted by 98.110.150...
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