1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
to go, it was wobbling. After a long search online, I found a place in FL that had a rebuilt clutch assembly with new bearing. It was resurfaced and everything.
You really shouldn't run it at all if the bearing is going as it could potentially seize - then there goes your belt along with potential other disasters that go along with a snapped belt. You can use a short belt and bypass the compressor until you get it fixed. I posted here on this BB about which belt to get. Running it with a bad clutch bearing could also potentially destroy the entire compressor - which could lead to having to get a whole compressor and flush the whole system (as many compressor rebuilders will NOT warranty it unless the system is properly flushed.
The seals may have already been damaged so it may be a crap shoot if you just replace the clutch/bearing (in other words, you may have to replace the whole compressor anyway).
It's been a long time since I did this, so I don't remember where I got the clutch assembly. It did come with the clutch & plate, electromagnet, and some spacers to adjust the gap.
I was able to do it without having to disconnect the compressor (in car). It was a slight pain in the a$$, but doable. I got the clutch tool as a free loaner from the local Autozone. If I recall correctly, mine was able to slide off without the use of a puller - it just took some patient nudging. I used a socket to tap the new one on.
You can just replace the bearing (I forget what size it was), as it is a fairly standard size that you can order, but I don't recommend just that as you could potentially warp the clutch from the pressure of pressing the bearing in/out - plus the clutch and plate surfaces should be resurfaced anyway if you go this route.
The rebuilt clutch assemble was about $50 or so shipped IIRC.
posted by 24.62.2...
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