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Did you check the mounts (engine/transmission) - especially if you're hearing the thunk when you take off from a stop.
Another possibility, since you did the struts, is the gland nut that holds the insert in the strut housing. It has to be REALLY tight. IIRC the spec is something like 150 ft lbs with is difficult even with the right tools. Many people experience loosening of the gland nut which causes knocking of the insert as it moves around in the housing. When I did mine, I used a combination of thread locker and antiseize.
I put the thread locker at the beginning of the thread, and antiseize at the top. I figured as the gland nut gets screwed in, it will drag enough locker in to hold the gland nut and prevent loosening. At the same time the antiseize at the top will help prevent seizing from rust as this is where it gets rusted together (at least up here in salt/snow country.
I don't think it's the CV as usually when that causes noise on turning it's more of a constant clunking/clicking as the joint moves in and out of the worn area when the wheel turns.
I personally don't think the inner driver would create that kind of sound in that kind of situation, but others may have different ideas/opinions/experiences. The "play" in the shaft you are describing sounds normal to me if I'm getting it right.
I know this might sound stupid, but did you double check the torque on EVERYTHING? I mean with a torque wrench - not just "jiggling." One time after doing some work on mine (don't remember what exactly), I was driving and after a few miles it started to clunk. After double checking everything, it was just the lug bolts that had loosened up - enough to cause a clunking sound, but not enough that it was obviously loose. It was the first time loosening had happened to me, but I know and have read of numerous other people whose lug bolts have loosened up after a few miles (usually with aluminum wheels and less often with steel).
posted by 24.62.2...
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