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1998 900S won't start
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Posted by NHSAABER (more from NHSAABER) on Mon, 30 Nov 2015 09:52:24 Share Post by Email
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Automatic transmission; 256,000 miles.
Car died & was towed home. Engine turns over just fine but will not start. Recent tune up with new sparkplugs, rotor, distributor cap, wires and coil. Plugs have a nice hot spark so it is a fuel injection problem. Recently replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) due to hot start problem. Checked wires from CPS connector to ECU connector and electrical path exists. Also verified CPS ohms and AC generation is in spec. Fuel pump works fine and have 43 psi pressure at the fuel rail. Power is going to the fuel injectors pins #1 through fuse 16B and power stays on for 5 seconds after Ignition Switch is turned off, as it should. Have a Tech 2 and performed an “Activate Injectors” and bar graph on Tech 2 fills out, but no clicking sound from either of the 4 injectors. Then followed SAAB repair manual and hooked up test wire between fuel injector connector pin #2 and battery + terminal & ran “Activate Injector” function. Bulb is supposed to cycle on/off for 30 seconds, but does not light up at all. Then hooked up VOM meter to Pin #2 and + terminal of battery and measured voltage with Ignition Switch in “Off” position and got 12.5 volts. Then turned Ignition Switch to “On” position and still got 12.5 volts. Then turned the Switch to engage the starter and voltage dropped to about 11.5 volts. The ECU is tying Ground to the injectors continuously and it should not be (correct?). I have a backup ECU I got from a junkyard years ago and knew it was a good ECU so swapped it in and the same issue exists. Ordered another used ECU and tried it with the same results. Anyone have any ideas what is going on? Could I possibly have 3 bad ECU’s or is there something going on that I have not found that could damage yet another ECU? I am very careful about ESD and use ESD bags to store the ECU. There are no engine or transmission DTC codes set. When turning the Ignition Switch to “ON” and clearing the “test brakes” SID alert, the “Check Engine” , Oil pressure and the Exclamation Point idiot lights stay lit. Never had a problem with the car previously. Is there a place that tests/repairs ECU’s since I think it has to be the engine ECU?


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