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, Wed, 25 Jul 2001 16:12:14
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I can not trying to scare you, but you need to know what you are in for.
If you disconnect the battery, I can't see the point of removing relays or other electrical.
If you work in a garage, the fumes will pool on the floor which will create a flash fire hazard and a health hazard when you are working there. Remember that a breaking trouble light can be an excellent source of ignition. A box fan to provide a large flow of air might be a good consideration.
When in college, don't ask when that was..., I did some work on my Opel GT in the eventing, yeah, that long ago, and the parking lot was under a major transmission line. As it got dark, I could see sparks from my hand tools to the vehicle. The electrical arcs were about .5 to 1mm in length. I often wondered what would happen if I was working on the fuel system.
There is no drain plug on the tank. So you need syphon off the fuel, start with a near empty tank. After you get it down, you can get the residual fuel out to make the lift for refit easier.
There might be an access under the rear seat for a wire disconnect. Otherwise you need to partially lower the tank to get at the connectors.
When using a trolly jack under the tank, use a board to distribute the load, but you probably will not want the board to cover the tank hanger straps. It might be worth the time to clean the bottom of the tank, then fasten soem plywood to the tank with duct tape. Then you will not be struggling with postioning and retaining the board while postioning the jack and operating it as well.
There is a breather hose and the filler neck.
You need to remove on of the fuel filter hoses, some fuel will leak out..
The hoses attach to the top of the pump with some kind of quick release latch union. Some strain relief clamps may be there as well. You need to deal with these with the tank partially lowered. It will be hard to see and cramped work. Haynes suggests marking each hose so that you don't confuse them later.
When you remove the pump, watch for the o-ring. Simmer the ring in hot water while you do something else, to allow it to reover some same so that it can be once again conformal, but I hope the new pump includes a new o-ring.
Note the indexing marks on the pump and tank to align the pump.
Some tanks and fillers incorporate anti fuel theft features which make the use of a syphon hose ineffective, so be prepared for some possible difficulties.
This would be a good time to fit a new fuel filter if one is due. You will be partway there already.
When you remove one of the fuel filter hoses, the seal washers at that end might not reseal afterwards. So despite Hanyes typical flaky ideas, I would attempt to only remove hoses at the fuel pump, then avoid the issue with the filter sealing washers. You can pull the fuel pump fuse at idle and let the engine run down some of the residual pressure. But others have posted that that is another Haynes folly.
Remember, lots of ventilation at the worksite.
, Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:53:07, Wed, 25 Jul 2001 16:12:14, Thu, 26 Jul 2001 10:38:14, Wed, 25 Jul 2001 16:10:14
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