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Re: REAR ROTOR REMOVAL
Posted by Dean (more from Dean) on Tue, 25 Sep 2001 09:50:26
In Reply to: REAR ROTOR REMOVAL, Tim nathan, Mon, 24 Sep 2001 23:09:55
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Do you have steel wheels? The alloy wheels seem to protect that torx screw.
Whenever you run across a fastener such as this, put some oil on it to facilicate future removal and to prevent rust.
If you are replacing the rotors, you have the option of having the screw washer out with a cutting torch. Actually with care, the screw count be washed out without trashing the rotor.
After getting tht torx screw out, then you can remove the two large bolts that hold on the caliper from the rear. Undo some clips that hold the steel brake line to allow it to moved without bending the brake line. Secure the caliper with a wire hanger of some sort. Don't let the caliper hang with its weight on the brake line.
I still do not see the point of the rotor hold down screws. Many vehicles with front and rear brakes do not have such things. With the wheel bolts secure, the rotor is not going anywhere. The only thing that they do is get the parking brake holes lined up.
If the torx is scripping, get a punch or a ball peen hammer, and try to beat the bolt to close in the center torx cavity. After some beating, drive the torx bit into the cavity to reform it, then repeat a couple of times. After this abuse and reestablishing some bite for the torx bit, give it another try. Put penetrating oil on the screw edge seam. Try to keep the torx bit area free of libricant! You can position the rotor so that a bolt hole opening or other is above the torx screw, and then try to get some penetrating oil to flow down to the torx screw threads.
posted by 207.43.19...
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