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The guage is showing yoou manifold pressure. You are seeing changes in manifold vacuum but no positive pressure. Check the large hoses and clamps from the turbo aluminum side (compressor) over towards the battery side where it enters the intercooler. There are 4 clamps and two rubber elbows. Then check from the IC outlet, just above the inlet, up towards the throttle body. There are two hoses and four clamps. While you are there doing a visual, try tightening them as well.
Remove the grill, it released in a couple of seconds. Inspect the intercooler, partly behind the bumper. Look for obvious damage. Look at the plastic end tanks as well.
By the right hand headlamp, towards the rad and up rather high is the BPC boost control valve with three hoses and an eletrical connector. Check the connector and check the hoses for damage or split ends. The wastegate actuator on the turbo, looks like a small tin can, is connected to the end most hose barb on the BCP.
With a cold engine, grab the wastegate lever that the actuator rod connects to. Move it by hand. It should take some effort to move it at the spring in the actuaator can is holding the wastegate shut. So is should be shut and held there by the spring. When you move it, does it move ok or feel that something is binding.
Check the hose from the front of the throttle body to the bypass valve. BPV. This hose ages badly. Look for split ends that will create leaks. Replace with vac line hose from the hardware store or auto parts store.
If after attending to any problems found above you still to not have boost, then check that the throttle body transition casting which bolts to the the throttle body with 2 10m bolts, has the seal o-ring on it. Unclamp the coupling hose to do this. Grab the throttle body and force it around atttemting to feel that it is not firmly bolted to the intake manifold. Look for split ends on other vac lines while you are at it, or other things undone. Check the 1" size hosed to and from a can like device on the RHS. That is the idle air control valve. Possibley the high pressure side, above the throttle plate is popped off.
After doing the above, if you don't have boost, then test to see if the problem is with the boost control or with the turbo. To determine if the turbo can generate boost, remove the hose at the BPC that goes to the wastegate actuator. Now drive off, and be very gradual with the throttle. You should gt good boost and very strong power. The guage will go into the red and if you get to 0% thr the red then the ECU will cut out the fuel injectors for a moment... no problem. But don't play around much with the boost because you don't know what fuel is in the tank or what plugs are installed etc.
If you get boost the turbo unit is ok. If you don't, there is still a gross leak in the system or the turbo is damaged.
If you get boost, then the controls are bad. You need to confirm that the BCP is properly hooked up, the wastegate actuator is properly adjusted to work with the BPC etc. Or you could install a $35 MBC, manual boost controller and be happy that way.
The AC is a potentially a very expensive fix. Evaportator replacement is quite likely needed, as well a the anit-frost switch that is in there as well. But could be just the switch, which takes out an overpressure switch on the compressor if it is bad. Dealer stuff.
You did not state that the radio was working, I assume not.
Struts take some labor to replace. You can get the cheapest for spend up to 570 for Koni's all around. Do the rear shocks too. Also spend $112 total for front strut upper mounts and bearings from KYB.
You can have a nice vehicle after getting things fixed.... Saabs are not the easiest or cheapest to get repaired. Take the vehicle to a dealer. They can get the service history from the VIN. Does not matter what dealer you go to.
plugs should be NGK BCPR6ES11's gapped to .039. could find 7ES's and they will do as well.
Bad plugs can cause the ECU to reduce boost. But your description indicates that the turbo is not even developing base boost. That and the fact that you hear the turbo really suggest that a larger hose has popped off and needs to be replace and clamped. If so, some unfiltered air is probably getting into the intake system at low rpms and idle.
Read about struts and mounts. Search this BB for drs<underscore>install and look for strut and mount postings. Do not post this search key work in postings with the <_> character, as this will make folks find your posts as well as mine when using this search key word... a bad signal to noise ratio.
95SET 140000 miles
posted by 208.24.17...
, Thu, 21 Mar 2002 23:03:38
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