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Hi All,
I'll start with Bill H's comments:-
"If anyone has ever installed that #40 torx screw on the lower pulley, my hats off to him. I tried and after about 5 minutes - tossed that mess."
Well Bill you can dip your hat to me. I made my own T40 tool. I purchased a Torx 40 1/4" hex bit and ground it down to 0.675" long. I next made an undersize 1/4" hex hole in a piece of 5mm flat steel. Welded on a 3 x 200mm handle 25cm long. I then pressed in the Torx bit. The tool worked a treat and after loosing the T40 screw I was able to undo with my fingers. Tool can be seen here http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~barnes/Torx40_tool.JPG
I have purchased a belt tensioner assembly from a Car Wrecker and found this also has had the serpentine belt running very close the aluminium tensioner arm and in fact had rubbed on it. This is the same scenario as the broken lug unit on my car. My question is:-
I have in the vice squeezed up the tensioner arm assembly and closed the gap between the arm and the fixed portion. I now think I should press down on the black steel plate around the 8mm mounting bolt hole. Has anyone else tried this??
I have regreased the plastic idler pulleys but the have some play and also have the plastic moulded around both sides of the bearing. Thanks to SaabTech2 and Bill H. One point I should mention is the guy where I purchased the lithium grease said, ”You should remove the old grease. Don’t mix greases” I still intend to make my own aluminium pulleys with a circlip or snap ring so that future bearing changes will be a breeze.
So as not to damage the second hand tensioner square hole for the power bar I have made my own. The reason being that the ½” holes are not true to size nor parallel. I have milled a square plug that fits exactly to the 2 sides in the direction of the applied force.
Martin Barnes
Auckland, New Zealand
1997 Saab 900S 2.3i 3 Door Manual 78K Kms
posted by 203.96.11...
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