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I posted this a while ago on the 9³ board.
The big deal is to be precise with the lug nut torque. New generation rotors ('90's and on) are a composite of a steel hub and a iron disk, or vise versa. With this design the rotor can appear warped out of the box. It takes the correct lug nut torque to true them.
Turning rotor removes material thus decreasing the rotors ability to disapate heat. To compound this, inexpensive turning lathes cannot clamp with the same pressure as the auto's rim on the vehicle. Also, the turned rotor does not have the same quality surface roughness. During an appropriate breaking schedule**, this would generate too much heat. Often the cause of warp soon after a cheap brake job.
**break in new pads or new pads and rotors with (10) moderate stops from 35 mph (1) minute apart.
A few years ago, GM announced, because of the composite rotor contruction, rotors should be no longer turned. I'm sorry but I cannot remember the exact reference.
Also, don't worry about gouges usless it is as wide as a dime is thick and as deep as the gouge overlaps any of the text on the dime.
Soooooooooo, your best bet is doing your own brake jobs, since shop equipment is no longer required. You simply need a micrometer to determine when your rotors are below spec. Replace your pads when they need it. Replace your pads when your replace your rotors. Replace calipers seals, hardware, and any springs (inside the drum portion of rear disks) on every other brake change.
Later,
tony
01 9³ SE Conv 5spd
96 Dodge Stratus ES (will be traded for a 02 9³ 5 door)
posted by 66.114.15...
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