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drs_magnetic_probe <-- search key word
drs_lube
The oil sump magnetic catheter made. I have 8 1/4" dia and 1/8" thick neo magnets stacked in a brass tube whith some brass spacers (tube) and a 1/4" x 3/4" steel dowel. The free end has a brass acorn nut filed and pressed in to form a nice brass bull nose. The other end has 4 feet of 1/6" aircraft cable inserted with a swaged cable ferrel into the tube which is epoxy'd in, as it the free end as well. The free end has a swaged ferrel with a nice loop and cable loop stay.
The dowel in the center has equal pole pairs of magnets stacked at each end which allows an exteral large magnet to create a high clamping force to drag it around. This will be used thru the aluminum oil sump to sweep and move the magnet structure around in the oil pan with the next oil change to sweep for fragments of steel. No major fragments... no major timing or balance change failures in progress.
I had the magnets. The tubing and other bits cost around $4 at the hardware store, with lots leftover for who knows what....
I figure this is a very inexpensive diagnostic tool to assess whats going on inside, without taking things apart. So I will try this out in a few weeks when I change the oil, and install the super magnet stainless steel drain plug.
With an aluminum oil sump, this will work nicely. I expect that the unit cannot be moved around a drawn steel oil sump, so it would be much less useful for such engines. But not many engines have self descructing timing and balance chains.
I wish there was a spelling checker for BB's!
So why are these engines failing? The lubrication seems marginal, so neglect if oil changes would certainly be a factor... noting that some engines with reasonable maintenace histories are also affected sometimes. I have seen posts suggesting that some model years were affected by improper heat treat, or hardness. Until someone gets a harness measruement or other metalurgical analysis of failed sprockets.. I don't know if that is true.
Meanwhile I am assuming that better oil is needed and will continue to use 5W40, 10W40 would also be fine. (I am using Mobil's fully synthetic Delvac one, as I need it for our TDI VW diesel). It has been shown that on some engines, cam wear rates are significant with W30 oils, but some W40 oils show no signs of notable wear. So I have an opinion... another opinion is that one should not use dyno oil in these engines. The fact that some folks report trouble free miles on dyno oil does not create a conflict in my mind. I beleive that the Saab engine fleet needs to be running a group VI fully synthetic oil, and that even at that 30W is probably still marginal. I think that group III highly hydrocracked dyno oil like Castrol FakeTec (tm) should not be used. Yes one can make arguments about the cost of Mobil One VS dyno oil. But what about the cost of chain failures and many total engine right offs! the fleet I believe will have lower operating cost on the best oil that you can get, and 5W40 ir 10W40 is probably better yet.
5W40 Mobil Delvac makes my enigne quieter and smoother than with Mobil One 10W30. Tell me that an engine that makes more noise is better lubricated... I don't think so. And my mpg's are up significantly, the highest I have ever seen with performance tires mounted. So forget the voodoo and FUD (fear and doubt) about needing the lower viscosity oils for fuel efficiency. (Perhaps on a new tight engine).
posted by 65.68.100...
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