1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
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There is a 12mm ID coolant loop hose going to and fro the throttle body. This is to prevent condensation and freeze up of the vacumm orifices. This also heats the combustion air needlessly most of the year.
I put in a small ball valve with 3/8" hose barbs. These were 10.5mm across the barbs. The hose goes onto 12mm fittings on the TB. So I put some self vulcanizing rubber tape over the barbs to build them up a bit.
I put a 1/4" nylon tube into the coolant reservoir and drained that then got it down through the reservoir's lower fitting and hose as far as it would go and continued syphoning. After it drained a while I opened up the HR coolant joint at the TB to break the air lock. The net is zero coolant loss. This also allows for zero coolant loss for the stat and upper hose if you are resourcefull. You can pull the upper rad hose and get a tube into the rad side tank and drain it with zero loss too.
Note that from just the reservoir as described above, and breaking the air lock, you can get a bit more than one US gallon so watch the capacity of that you are syphoning into.
If you use stainless gear clamps, the cuts in the stainless can cut the rubber hose. Some folded over fiber glass tape, duct tape or friction tape inserted between the clamp and the hose will prevent the rubber from extruding through the sharp holes. Anything with cloth or fiber will work fine.
After installing and putting the coolant back, leave the valve open for a while to allow the air to be displaced then close the valve until winter. Some have reported that they don't open the valve in the winter. That might be unwise.
posted by 65.68.100...
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