Re: 60,000 miles coming up....what to change.... - Saab NG900 & OG9-3 Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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Re: 60,000 miles coming up....what to change....
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Posted by Dean (more from Dean) on Wed, 4 Sep 2002 11:33:39 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: 60,000 miles coming up....what to change...., Golden900, Wed, 4 Sep 2002 11:02:23
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There is a good chance that you are running the original drive belt and pullies. The upper tensioner pully is the smallest and will be the first to fail. A 1/2x/12 bar or 13x13mm will move the tensioner and a small scredriver or nail can be used to lock it back in position. The holes for this are on the lower part of the face.

Spin the pullie, wobbles a bit and spins forever because it is dry? These things do fail all of the time. Inspect the belt, you eye and experience should be a good guide. The lower idler pully just above the crankshaft is a PIA to change, but lasts much longer than the other one. See how it feels.

When the pullies fail your vehicle is disabled. And damage sometimes occurs to other components.

The OEM cabin air filters are easily cleaned and reused. If you use a hard jet of water the polypropylene blanket element will get teased and messed up. It does not have to snow white to be clean and effective. Don't worry about bits of chaff caught in the element that you can't easily remove. Consider these bits additional filter media. After market filters are a synthetic fiber paper element and I don't feel that they will clean up. The OEM filter costs more but when cleaned is much cheaper than the aftermarket filters.

Check how the brakes are wearing. Look for uneven pad thickness comparing inboard to outboard. The OEM pads on my 95SET lasted 130000 miles and had some remaining life left when I changed them. But city driving can wear the pads out fast.

The rear inboard pads can get rust bound in the caliper slots. It is good PM to remove the pads, scrape the rust and dirt out of the slots and clean up the backing plate edges. Then smear some lithium grease on the backing plate edges and caliper slots as a rust preventative. Ditto for the pins and hold down clips and shims.

Never adjust the parking brake shoes when the p-brake looks like it needs adjustement. First remove the caliper and rotor and clean and grease the p-brake shoes and contact edges to the backing plate etc. The shoes should outlast the vehicle and more. There is normally only wear when the pads fail to retract because the mechanism is not moving freely.

Clean the throttle body, some solvent and a cloth works well. The IAC valve can be cleaned, but you might need some carb cleaner to get that clean. And then liberally oil it afterwards as the carb cleaner it too effective as a degreaser.

Tighen up all of the hose clamps that you can see. The rubber relaxes under the gear clamps and the clamping pressure is greatly reduced. The smaller diameter hose joints are more likely to leak than the larger ones.

Might be a good idea to replace the ATF.

Time to get some new headlamp bulbs and keep them in with the spare tire. And there is a good chance that the spare tire has gone flat. You have to remove it to test the pressure and fill.

year?engine?



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