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There is only an adjustment provided for the toe-in. However, N-body shims can be used on the rear axle.
I use a low, close to zero toe-in, but I do that so that the tires do not fight each other on icy sections. I can feel that going on. But that might not be the best setting for steering response etc. If the toe-in is out of whack the steering can feel heavy and strange.
The stock camber is -0.5 degrees, according to Haynes if I have that right. That is a minor amount. If the left and right don't have close to the same camber the steering might pull to one. Side. If they are within .2 degrees of each other that should be good. Some have slotted the top holes to change the camber. The subframe steel is very soft, as it is hot dip galanized. So it is possible for this 'soft' steel to deform if you slide into a curb or get hit from the side. The frame would get pushed inward and the camber would change from -ve towards the positive.
If there was subframe deformation, guessing that the distance from the top mount to the ball joint is 20", then to change the camber by 0.5 degrees, the subframe would have to be deformed by 20" x sin(0.5) = .174", which is a bit less that 3/16" of an inch or 4.4mm.
Tire life and mpg's will be greatly affected by inflation pressures. I suggest that you start with 25 psi and watch the pressure with the dropping temperatures. I found that a temperature drop from mid 90's or higher to 70 degrees dropped the tire pressure to an average of 30 psi from 35 psi. Thats with alloy rims, 205/50-16's on two different vehicles. So the rule of thumb that you loose 1 psi for each 10 degrees F is an understatement. It seems closer to 2 psi for each 10F.
So you are going to pay for an alignment and all that they will do is change the toe-in at best I expect. Does the vehicle pull to one side now? If not the camber is probably fine. Any uneven wear on the old tires, that is very informative.
posted by 207.43.195...
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