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Thanks to Steve, who affirmed I was headed on the right path in removing my front rotors! After much heating, lots of Ospho and PB and a 10 lb sledge and 36" Gorilla bar, I won! The front rotors are finally off! I cerainly hope the wheel bearing didn't mind too much!
I have also Ospho'd and dremeled the hubs and will be sure to coat them with high quality grease before seating the new rotors!
Will need to back off the emergency brakes even further and readjust to account for the new hubs when I take the rear off the ground again. Keeping the car completely on jacks makes me a little less then comfortable, so I have the rear down and both wheels blocked since the calipers are off (therefore, no parking brake is available).
Nick at Talliafero is sending me EBC pads and Tarox SS lines. Should be here in a day or two. I received a personal call from him saying they were delayed due to a snowstorm. Great customer service! Highly recommended!
In the mean time, I have used some Dupli-coat high temp paint (1200F) on the non braking sections of the rotors to keep them from rusting.
I also have ripped apart cleaned and dremmeled the calipers and painted them using a kit from VHT. This, I would not recommend. It cost $29, which seemed resonable, since it included paint, brake cleaner and rust remover/inhibitor. However, the paint bubbled on the calipers after I baked them as recommended in the instructions. My recommendation to those of you who are considering this is use buy all the components of the kit at Walmart for about the same cost! Get a dremel, too- the cleaner and brushes just don't work that well! The dremel is a great investment, you will use it on a lot of jobs!
After putting the calipers back together, I have discovered that getting the dust seals back on the front pistons is a real bear. In fact, I believe it to be impossible after fiddling with them for a couple hours! I simply cannot get the outer seal into the caliper body. Anyone have any suggestions?
Also, I have been reading the posts about pads, shims, anti-squeal and anti seize.
1. For Dean, et al: you refer to using "anti seize" in your posts. Whatizit? I have been used to using grease- in this case, I was thinking of Slick 50 One Grease, since it has a dropping point of 550F.
2. As far anti-squeal spray, will this be necessary for the EBCs? I doubt it, but figure I had better ask. I have never seen or used, anyone have a recommended brand if needed?
3. Do the pads need to be put into place with copper grease, as listed in the Haynes manual? Seems unnecessary given the piston load that is carried on the pads after installation.
Again, thanks in advance for your inputs. Will keep you appraised of the progress and put a post together of the finished work. This Saab is my first foray into the world of internal combustion engines. I have a good deal of experience in marine gas turbines- but this is a bit different!
ATB,
Rich
'97 900SET Talladega
181,000 and looking forward to the 200,000 mile sticker:)
posted by 68.13.205...
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