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Clutch Cable Replacement Experience. 97 900 2.3
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Posted by Bob [Email] (more from Bob) on Mon, 28 Apr 2003 17:55:48 Share Post by Email
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Just posting what I went through in case it might help someone else.
The cable broke at 60k. It was frayed through right at the metal button at the end. I put in a new one with instructions from other messages here. I had a REAL hard time getting the end on the pedal right. I ended up making a tool out of some stiff wire and going in the opening just below the steering column. I put on the highly overpriced lube from the dealer where the cable moved in and out of the jacket. The engine compartment side was pretty easy compared to the inside. The kicker was however that the clutch was engaging way too low! I could just barely get it and out of gear with the pedal forced to the floor. Jacked the "adjuster spring" on the cable around a bit, no improvement. I fashioned a rubber spacer out of the rubber off of the old broken cable to pull up some slack. That worked for a while but in a few days ended up back with the same problem. So, seeing that some people had problems with lubrication on the clutch I pulled off the clutch inspection cover. There was a fine rust like powder in there. I pulled out the WD40 and hit the shaft from the clutch activation lever and the bearing (hopefully because it's pretty hard to see down in there even with a bright light). I tried hard to stay away from the clutch plates and yes, it's REAL easy to lose the red straw from the WD40 down the clutch, be careful!! Anyway, after lubing it up, and re-jacking around the "adjuster spring" the clutch worked great!! I had to lub it again a few months later. Since WD40 is really volatile, I'm going to try the spray Tri-Flow next. Thanks to all for their suggestions!!!


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