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Before you do that, you need to know that the pads have cut and torn surfaces that need to bed into the rotors and compact as well. This happens when any one axle is done. When front and back are done the result can be ... "not hard enough".
So I suggest that you accelerate things. Do several runs up to speed and brake hard. Do not come to a complete stop. Keep doing this. And avoid clamping the pads hard against the rotors after at a dead stop. You will be heating and consolidating the pad surfaces. You may smell them stinking. After some of this I expect that the petal feel will improve and you will feel that the brakes are 'biting' much better. If the rotors are new or remachined, then the metal surface will get conditioned. If the rotors are old and not remachined, then the pads need to wear and burn into the shape of the old rotors, grooves and all. So do that and I expect that you will feel when things are right.
The above does no harm as long as you don't dead stop or clamp hard on the hot rotors. Doing that will transfer materal from the pad to the rotor and that is not good. Yes, this is contrary to everything they tell granny! You will also be burning some organics out of the pad surface. This too is a good thing and prevents material transfer to the rotor, which can make a true rotor feel warped. And you might smell that organic burn-off.
Otherwise the MC's last a long time with the following points. Don't neglect to bleed the brake system as specified. Remove and replace the fluid in the reservoir every year. That is where moisture gets in and moisture accumulates. Search for 'mini bleed'. When bleeding or advancing the pads after a brake job, never push the brake petal past 1/2 way to the floor, put a block of 2x4 behind the petal. Over stroking the petal will run its rubber cup seals over any corrosion deposits in the untraveled extent of the MC and that will lead to MC failure in the next weeks or months.
posted by 65.68.102...
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