Caution for DIY crank Hall sensor replacement - Saab General Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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Caution for DIY crank Hall sensor replacement
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Posted by Greg Netzner (more from Greg Netzner) on Mon, 21 Apr 2003 11:37:02 Share Post by Email
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Just did this Saturday on my '90 & the repair seems to have been successful. (see link for a description of the problem, occurring regularly on drives of only 3 to 4 mi in length & worsening in duration.) The car had to be trailered to a friend's house to do the work (thanks Lad!!), but I was able to drive home for 25mi, un-interrupted.

The caution: I bought the splice-in sensor from a site sponsor (which saved me over $200, on the sensor alone, from having a shop do it), but the wire colors created the problem. The old sensor had black, green & orange wires (potted in that order), while the new one had black, orange & green wires (potted in THAT order). The "rule of thumb" is, match like colors. Unfortunately, in this case, that didn't work. Luckily, the mid-placement connector (by the oil filler tube) can be opened & the wires re-positioned (so now the green wire going into the connector comes out as an orange wire, & the orange wire changes to a green wire), & when I did this it fired right up.

So if you do this repair, take note of the wire's color positions, as you may need to do some swapping. (The new sensor had the p/n on the back covered over with black permanent marker, so I couldn't compare it to the old p/n.)

As a side note, the new A/C idler pulley was maybe 10mm larger than the old one, so that should increase it's service life by a year or two. The old one really didn't have much bearing play, but it sounded completely dry & a tiny bit crunchy. Also, getting the alternator unbolted, pressing in the new lower bushings, & then squeezing the alternator back into the new bushings was a bigger PITA than anything I needed to do with the sensor. (Those 14yr-old bushings should've been replaced 4yrs-6yrs ago!)


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