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you need diameter, width, offset, centerbore, bolt dimensions (e.g., seat angle, thread pitch), and, for 15 inch wheels, possibly caliper clearance info. you need tire size. you need oem rim specs, too.
hubcentric aftermarket is easiest, but centerbore must be equal to or larger than saab's (you can run centering rings, if nec.). some hubcentrics with centerbore that is too small can be machined to fit, but it costs extra and you may have to hunt for a machine shop willing to do the work. the hard core may, instead of dealing with centerbore issues, take the hubs to a machinist and have the hub lip cut down (the cheap but hard core do it themselves). you could also run lugcentric if you tighten lugnuts with wheel off the ground (and have centerbore clearance and put studs in the hubs). regardless of mounting type, you will need to replace the mounting "guide" pins - they are saab-only.
if you push out new rims by an inch (via shallower offset and/or greater width) while maintaining oem tire dia., on a lowered car (e.g., spg springs or lower) you will likely have rubbing on rear fender, may be worse on spg trim. may be no problem on non-lowered car. on the inside, some rims may fit up front but be too deeply offset to run without spacers in the rear. spacers can be had cheap - if you don't shop around, you have but yourself to blame for buying someone's overpriced bling. same goes for wheel studs.
that said, comparing fitment on someone else's car to your own is not a safe way to prove/disprove successful fitment due to varying ride height (from spring sag or aftermarket springs), spring rate, car weight, load position and weight, alignment, bushing condition, driving habits, road quality, tire size, tire construction (square vs. rounded transition from tread to sidewall), spg trim.
in other words, you are best off to either figure out fitment on your own, or find a shop that will guarantee fitment.
posted by 81.0.225...
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