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OK, Let's clear this fuse issue up.
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Posted by Aaron Gilbert [Email] (more from Aaron Gilbert) on Sun, 12 Aug 2001 16:20:56 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: gained 20 hp... Man, I was gonna say...., James, Sun, 12 Aug 2001 00:06:23
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You do not want a fuse in the line of your trunk mounted battery. Why, you say? Because all the current flowing to the starter is going through that line. If you've ever shopped for a battery and done some comparisons, you know that one of the key specifications is CCA, or Cold Cranking Amps. Typically, it's well over 300 amps, some as high as 800 I believe. That means the battery can put out that many amps to the starter motor. So, go and put a 100 amp fuse in, and go to start the car and pop! there goes your fuse and no start. Yes, they do make 200 amp fuses, and there is such a thing as a slow blow fuse, but not in the kind of amperage rating you need.

The amperage needed is why they do not put fuses in the power line from the battery to the starter, no matter how short or how long the line. This is why most all manufacturers heavily insulate it - 4 gauge or even 2 gauge cable with super thick insulation to begin with, then also wrapped in a very tough fabric or plastic sheath.

All clear? :)


Now, for adding accessories to your battery positive terminal, or positive distribution block, it is indeed very wise to put a fuse at that point. IN the case of accessories, it's both cheap and practical, as most things you add will not draw more than a simple ATC blade type fuse holder can handle - 30A or so max.



Aaron Gilbert
1987 9000T 262k miles

posted by 207.202.17...

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