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I met up with Steve Yamamoto tonight and we did some checking on my car. I had suspected that my Aquamist wasn't injecting, as A/F ratio gauge didn't show it, and after some hard driving, I hadn't used any fluid (or extremely little). Well, we applied pressure to the switch via Steve's home-made pump, and wouldn't you know it, the water pump worked! We aren't sure how accurate Steve's pressure gauge was though, but by it's indications, the water was not coming on until nearly 15 psi! Way too high... I adjusted the switch down so it comes on around 8 or 9 psi, and this definitely seems far better. I also checked the timing, still at 16 degrees, and checked the retard, which is good at 10 degrees retard under full boost. I realize this is a bit too much retard, but I've had issues in the past with detonation/pinging running anything over 16 degrees. Now, I don't hear pinging anymore, but the APC is still cutting back boost. It will reach 20 psi, then cut back to 10-15 psi, then climb back up, then cut back, etc, etc.. I think i am going to turn my RRFPR back up, it's currently set at 3.0 bar. For the dyno run, it was at 3.4 bar and the boost didn't seem to cut back at all, just the usual taper.
I current know I have a faulty AMM, which is producing the wild idle at startup (and stalling), as well as very poor fuel mileage, and occasional black smoke out the tailpipe. Neither Steve or I knew how much effect a bad AMM could have, specifically, whether it could run too rich at cruise and yet also too lean at WOT.. I'll have a new AMM on Tuesday (not remanufactured) and we'll just find out!
Aaron Gilbert
1987 9000T 263k miles
posted by 207.202.1...
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