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, Sat, 30 Mar 2002 17:25:24
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you gave yourself more timing retard under boost, but you may also be over retarded. the having the needle over in the red doesn't mean your car is faster, it just means the engine is under more stress. when i first got my modified engine running better, i could easily peg my 20 psi guage, but i didn't get any more power after 15 psi or so. max retard under boost was somewhere around 8.5 dbtdc. by decreasing max retard to around 9.5-10 dbtdc, i was able to find a lot more power at lower boost pressures. you would be amazed at what 1 or 2 degrees of timing will do. after adding a fmic, i was able to decrease max retard further to 11.5 or so. made another big difference. point being, seeing the needle push further isn't giving you anymore power (necessarily), it's just increasing manifold pressure, and heat. object is to maximize power output at lower boost levels and then increase boost under control by adjusting timing, cooling intake charge (fmic, h2o, more fuel), and ensuring proper fueling.
now, this could all be thrown aside if you happened to hit your timing on the nose by accident. chances are though, if you didn't adjust your initial timing to compensate, you are your max retard is too much. this assumes initial timing of 16 dbtdc, stock retard to about 10.5 dbtdc. if you bent the stop without adjusting initial timing (my assumption) then your max retard is probably beyond 9.5 or so, thus not giving you the full power you could have.
to keep from hitting predet on hotter days, you could drop initial timing to 15 or 14.5 and it would affect your max retard by the same amount. if you are going to stay with your modified diaphram, your best bet would be to advance your initial timing to the point that puts your max retard to around 10 dbtdc. then you will have more initial advance and get more power off the line. hope this helps. good luck.
posted by 4.60.1...
, Sat, 30 Mar 2002 17:25:24
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