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Roger,
Thanks for the response. Here's a point-by-point response. I'll
be attacking the beast again this Saturday.
> First, I'd check the usual culprits, make sure your plug wires are in
> the right order and hopefully you have vacuum leaks covered.
Wires are in correct order; I'll double check that they are not all
shifted by one position, though. Vacuum holes are all plugged, but
I'll try watching the MAP sensor values.
> Where is your air temp sensor located, if it's unplugged or not
> getting the right info, it will be way rich in a limp home mode, same
> with engine temp.
Air temp sens is tapped into TB 5-th injector boss, water temp is the
original one in intake manifold. The temp values on the LCD look
correct.
> What are you using for ignition, SDS, MSD, stock or other? If you are
> using MSD or another brand of multi-spark system, changing magnet
> position below 3K usually has little effect unless under load.
The EM-3E came with a coil/driver. For now, I'm using that. When I'm
ready to run some boost, I'm gonna install my Jacobs pro-Street.
> What is your MAP reading while it is running?
Haven't checked yet. Will do.
> Which MAP sensor are you using, 2 or 3 BAR?
3 Bar MAP sensor, 3 bar FPR.
> Any other options, if so, are they hooked up?
The cold-start solenoid. I have it connected electrically, but not
plumbed to the TB. Could this be a problem ? I'm running with the
throttle partway open, and tweaking the mixture knob over it's whole
range, so I was assuming this was only a minor detail.
> What is your RPM timing at 500,750 and 1000 RPM? I'd put these 3 at 20
> or 22, then increase by two for each range, until you reach 36, then
> carry that to redline, leave the default ignition load values there
> for now.
I haven't looked at these yet, so they're set at whatever defaults SDS
picked. My understanding of the MAGNET POSITION parameter is that if
it is off by, say, 5 degrees, then the spark will also be off by the
same 5 degrees. So although I felt pretty sure my magnets were right
around 80 degrees, I tweaked the MAGNET POSITION parameter up and down
a little to advance/retard the timing. The engine didn't seem to care
much either way.
Just to be sure : when the magnet passes the sensor, the crank still
has to rotate another 80 degrees until it reaches TDC. That's correct,
right?
> Hybrid or standard TPS?
> Also check your TPS, if this isn't working, strange things can happen,
> go to 3rd gauge mode and make sure it increses as the throttle is
> depressed, also check that the value is greater than zero when the
> throttle is closed.
I have the one sold by SDS; the original was only a switch. When
closed, it reads 3. I forget the max, but it does increase when the
pedal is pressed.
> If everything is correct and while all the other varibles are the
> same, you should be able to adjust the mixture with the knob and get
> it to act right. So, this tells me something else is probably not
> right.
Okay, that's good to hear. One suspicion I have is that the hall
sensor might be "missing" the magnets sometimes. My two magnets are
at slightly different radii, so the sensor is placed to split the
difference. When I rotate the flywheel by hand I do get MAGNET SEEN
and hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds. But my hunch is that I
might be right at the edge of sensitivity, so at engine speeds it
could be missing.
> As far as startup and engine temp values, you can't rule any of that
> out until you can get it to idle.
Okay, I'll spend some more time tweaking these.
> Don't drive it until it will idle and starting reasonably well is nice
> too.
No chance of that !
Thanks again,
Jeff, driver of a borrowed Toyota
posted by 205.170.5...
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